How to make furniture with your own hands: educational dish

The kitchen and the wardrobe are almost the simplest types of furniture for beginner masters in the assembly (not counting only the bedside tables and shelves). In general, the living room and bedroom furniture usually requires a more serious approach, the use of non-standard materials, glass. This article will help beginners to understand how to make furniture on their own.

The kitchen and the wardrobe are almost the simplest types of furniture for beginner masters in the assembly (not counting only the bedside tables and shelves). In general, the living room and bedroom furniture usually requires a more serious approach, the use of non-standard materials, glass. This article will help beginners to understand how to make furniture on their own.

Main material: LDSP

A tree in pure form is already practically not used in cabinet furniture; The array is considered expensive elite material.

Now the tree is replaced with a cheaper material - laminated chipboard (abbreviated LDSP). Most often, these plates have a thickness of 16 mm, you can also find a 10 and 22 mm thick chipboard. 10 mm Sheets are usually used to fill the door wardrobes, and 22 mm - for bookcases and shelves, where high bending strength is required. Also, sometimes with the help of elements from LDSP 22 mm decorate the design.

Almost all furniture details are made from LDSP 16 mm (except doors and facades).


Laminated chipboard

Cutting LDSP is produced on special machines on the guides. Of course, you can sprinkle it and at home with the help of an electric bike, but at the edges there will be chips and wavy irregularities. Smoothly sprinkle LDSP at home almost unreal.


The most vulnerable place in LDSP - he was sleeping. Through it, moisture to penetrate inside the easiest, so, with bad protection, the ends can soon wake. Therefore, the ends are closed with edges, there are several types of them.

    • The melamine edge is the cheapest, but poor-quality. It is possible to stick it at home with the iron.
Melamine edge

Melamine edge

    • PVC edge 0.4 and 2 mm - the optimal option. It can be glued only on a special machine, so they make it immediately when ordering sawing. To save money 0.4 mm glued to invisible ends, and 2 mm - to external, which will experience permanent loads and friction.
PVC edge 2 mm

PVC edge 2 mm

    • The edge of the ABS is similar to PVC, only made of eco-friendly material.
    • A mortise T-shaped profile is inserted into a pre-made milling groove. It is rarely used.
Cutting T-profile

Cutting T-profile

    • P-profile invoice - can be easily pasted at home on liquid nails. The main minus - the edges will perform a few millimeters, so dirt is clogged under it. On the other hand, this disadvantage allows you to hide a poor-quality cut.
Putting edge

Putting edge

Article in the topic: LDSP raving.


Kitchen facades and furniture doors are usually made of more elegant material. But if you make a drawer door inside a wardrobe, which no one can see, for it you can use the usual 16 mm LDSP with PVC edge 2 mm. But the cabinets in the kitchen should look more presentable.

The facade is a separate furniture element. Usually it is made to order. If the dimensions of the facades are non-standard, their manufacture can take several months.

According to standard sizes, it is easy to navigate: usually the facades are made by 2 mm less than the cabinet itself on each side. Therefore, a facade of 596 mm is used for a standard cabinet 600 mm.

The height of the kitchen cabinet also depends on the facade and ranges from 715 to 725 mm for outdoor cabinets (without legs) and low attachments, and 915-925 mm for high hinged cabinets.

Standard sizes of facades for kitchen cabinets

Standard sizes of facades for kitchen cabinets

Types of facades

Since the facades perform, mostly decorative function, the choice is huge, they differ in appearance and material.

    • Facades from laminated MDF. This extruded material, more moisture-proof and dense, compared to the chipboard. Most often, the surface is laminated "under the tree". But no matter how strong the film is, over time, at the edges it can move and crack. The main plus of this material is in a low price and rapid manufacture.
Kitchen facades from MDF

Facades from MDF.

    • In addition to standard deaf facades, there are options with figure cuttings for stained glass. Glass fasten on the pad on the reverse side.
    • SoftFooding - Such facades are similar to ordinary MDFs, but have a characteristic two-color layout with a relief from two sides. They can only be used in dry rooms, bedrooms or living rooms.


    • Postforming is even better quality and durable products. Thin plastic over the edges wock 90 ° or 180 °, due to which extra seams on the corners are excluded. As the basis use chipboard or MDF plate. Usually postforming make strict shapes, without unnecessary firm decorative elements.


    • Plastic facades are high-quality, but expensive. Consist of base (chip / MDF), lined with thick plastic on both sides. They always have a strict design and a flat surface, glossy or matte. The edges of the plate are sometimes protected by an abs edge or aluminum profile. Recently, the superval acrylic plastic is especially popular.
Plastic facades in the kitchen

Plastic facades in aluminum profile

    • Facades of wood and veneer are suitable for fans of natural materials, but they are expensive. In addition, about ecology go long disputes: there is an opinion that the varnish and impregnations here are so much that only one name remains from the tree.
Wooden facades

Wooden facades

    • Painted facades under enamel. Have a significant drawback - the surface is vulnerable to the appearance of scratches and deformations, has low chemical resistance. Previously, it was popular thanks to a saturated color, but with the arrival of glossy acrylic plastic, everything changed.

Facades MDF Enamel

  • Aluminum facades with glass - suitable for the kitchen in the style of Hi-tech. They look modern, but are complex in manufacturing and installation. For their fasteners, non-standard fittings are used.

Rear walls and bottom boxes

The back wall and bottom of the boxes are most often made from LDVP. The smooth side of the sheet should look inside the cabinet / drawer. The thickness of the sheets is 3-5 mm, the color is selected under the LDSP.

Some prefer to attach LDD on the furniture stapler, but you can not do that. Over time, the brackets are ocked and the design can squeeze. About the bottom of the boxes and it is not worth talking - the stapler for fastening is clearly not suitable.


Furniture LDVP

Sometimes it is inserted into the prepared grain groove, but all sizes must match up to a millimeter.

Most often, LDDP is fixed on nails or self-tapping screws. It is better to use self-tapping screws with a press washer, but before screwing them, you need to drill the hole, otherwise the product can crack.

In rare cases, for example, to create a "rigidity edge" in a high closet or in high loads, the Fiberboard is replaced with LDSP. These materials can also be combined.


The countertop is a horizontal working surface on which you can cook food, there is, read, write, etc.

Most office and written tables, as well as cheap dining, countertop from the same LDSP as the main details. The thickness is 16 or 22 mm, necessarily framing the PVC edge of 2 mm.

For the kitchen use special countertops. They are a leaf of chipboard with a thickness of 28-38 mm, which is covered with a durable plastic on post-forming technology. Moisture-resistant countertops are green on the cut, and the usual chipboard is gray. The right kitchen countertop must have a kippler, which will prevent flowing fluid on the facades and in the boxes.

Sing usual and moisture-resistant table top

Sing usual and moisture-resistant table top

The weak place of such countertops is the edge of heard. Usually they are closed with a simple melamine edge, so they come into disrepair already in the first year of operation. To avoid this, it is recommended to protect the edges with special aluminum profiles (end plank), and to protect against moisture, it is pre-wrapped with silicone sealant.

There are also other types of profile: angular and connecting plank, which are needed for docking several cabinets with different table tops.

Connecting tabletops

Corner, connecting and face plank for table top

Another element is a decorative corner that closes the gap between the wall and the worktop.

Plinth for table top

Plinth for table top

For finishing, the apron sometimes use a wall panel. Unlike tile or mosaic, it is more practical thanks to the absence of seams and inexpensive, compared with glass aprons.

Mounting countertops to the cabinets is made from the bottom to short screws to horizontal struts, so as not to spoil the smooth facial surface.

Mounting table tops for closet

Mounting table tops for closet

Countertops from natural or artificial stone are better and more durable than others. Natural stone is heavy and requires special care due to high porosity. And the artificial stone does not have such shortcomings, it can be given any size and shape. The main minus of stone countertops is a high price, for small cuisine, they cost 40 thousand rubles. and more.

Alternative - table top from tile or porcelain stoneware. You can make it yourself, but the tile can not be attached to the usual fane or chipboard. Previously the base must be seen by cement-fibrous sheets.

Location details

The detail is called any element of cabinet furniture: covers, table tops, walls, facades, shelves. Each item can be either nested or overlap. The correct choice of type of location is very important.

Consider examples of two kitchen cabinets: one of them will stand on the legs, and the second will be suspended.

Outdoor cabinet:

As can be seen in the photo, the operational voltage in the outdoor cabinet is directed down from the lid and in the first embodiment is naturally transmitted through the parts on the cabinet legs.

Proper and incorrect option for assembling floor cabinet

Proper and incorrect option for assembling floor cabinet

In the second, incorrect version, the load is transmitted through the confirmation (furniture screw), and because of this it will be removed on the break from the part.

Hinged cabinet:

In the second example, the opposite: the load will go to the bottom shelf, and the attachment point will be from above.

Proper and improper assembly of the mounted cabinet

Proper and improper assembly of the mounted cabinet

If you apply here the same fastening scheme, as in the outdoor cabinet (1 option), all 4 bolts will be constantly under loading load from wood. Therefore, it is better if the confirmates will experience a load on the break (see "correctly" scheme).

Furniture fasteners

Furniture fasteners are hardware (metal products), which are used to connect parts. Most often, the compounds are performed at right angles.

    • Wooden specks - inserted in advance drilled holes in both parts. Use them for pre-fixing and enhancing the load "on the cut", then the parts are fixed with a more reliable way.


    • Furniture corners - popular, but outdated view of the furniture attachment. Among the minuses: appearance, loosening over time and bulky.
Chat "Furniture Corner"

Furniture corner

  • Evrovint (confirmation) - furniture screw. This is the main fastener of the details in modern furniture. Female makers almost do not use conventional screws. Confirmates have a greater thread, so they keep inside the chipboard is much better. Confirmation


    Holes for them can be drilled directly at the place. To do this, use a special drill that makes a hole with different diameter for threads, necks and Hats of Eurovint. Most often used configmatics 7 * 50 mm. Special attention when drilling must be paid to the perpendicularity of drilling, so as not to spoil the coating of the part through the hole.

    Drill for Eurovinta

    Drill for Eurovinta

    Furniture screws are tightened with a hex key or a screwdriver nozzle. Hats under a crusade screwdriver will not be tightened tightly to the end.

The main disadvantage of this type of fastening - the screws screwed the caps remain in sight. To hide them, plastic plugs under the color of LDSP are used.

  • Eccentric ties - a modern and proper fastening method. It leaves a hole only on the inside of the product, but requires very accurate drilling. Eccentric screed

    Eccentric screed

    To obtain the required holes, use the forster drill. There is no particular sense to bother with their use to build elements that will be hidden, no, but they are well suited for fastening the doors of drawers.

Drill Forstener

Drill Forstener

Article in the topic: Build kitchen with your own hands.

Furniture fittings

    • Handles - everything is clear here. Usually attached to the screws.
    • The legs are easy to indoors where a wet floor cleaning is often made, for example, in the kitchen. From daily contact with water, any wood, and especially chipboard, quickly deterrent. In addition, at the expense of the legs, you can align furniture on uneven grounds.
    • Silicone damper is cheap, but a very useful detail that allows you to reduce the noise of shocks from the door of the cabinets. It is glued on top and bottom to the door or the end of the cabinet to mitigate the impact.
Silicone damper

Silicone damper

    • Furniture loops. Round cutouts for them (additives) in the facades can be made in any furniture workshop if the manufacturer did not make them in advance. The loops differ in the degree of opening the door. Standard loops have an angle of opening 180 °, and in a closed position - 90 °. The loops have a special mechanism that allows you to adjust the doors in the height and depth of landing. Separate loops for sale for glass doors, you can climb the glass without drilling the hole.
Loops for facades

Furniture loops

From inexpensive fittings manufacturers, Chinese Boyard can be recommended, from the world's serious world - Austrian Blum.

Boxes and guides

There are many ways to manufacture furniture boxes. The easiest of them is to collect a perimeter from LDSP. If a beautiful facade is required, it is screwed into the main frame from the inside (as well as the table top). The facade can also be fixed on the eccentrics as the fourth wall of the box.

But the main thing is not to collect the drawer, but correctly consolidate it.

Guides for drawers are divided into roller or balls.

    • Roller guides are usually attached to the bottom of the box. He will ride them on two rollers. A pair of such guides costs about 150 rubles, but it is extremely recommended to use them. The main minus is that they do not allow the drawer completely, a heavy box in an open more than half, the situation may simply fall.
    • Ball guides, or as they are also called, "telescopic guide full extensions" are capable of increasing the length smoothly twice. Inside, they have a lot of balls, both in bearings, so they provide a smooth move.
Guide rails for drawers

Roller and ball guides for drawers

  • In addition, Blum has metaboxes and tandempoxes. These are ready-made side walls of drawers with installed guides. It remains only to install the facade, the rear wall and bottom.

Doors for wardrobes

The wardrobe is a separate (with side and rear wall), or built into a niche or angle (with one side wall). Internal filling can be any: ordinary shelves and mezzanine, retractable boxes and baskets, rods for clothes, special hangers for trousers, ties, etc.

Article in the topic: Internal filling of the wardrobe.

The main element of the wardrobe - sliding doors. You can not save on them, you need to buy high-quality accessories, otherwise you are tormented with falling and joining the doors. Almost in any city find in specialized stores Domestic sliding ARISTO systems is not a problem.

The wardrobe usually has 2-3 doors. They consist of a profiled frame, inside which insert decorative elements: mirrors and glass, LDSP, rattan sheets, bamboo, artificial leather (based on). Each door can be collected from a combination of several materials that are separated by an aluminum profile. In width, it is not recommended to do the doors more than 1 m.

Diagram door coupe

Diagram door coupe

Standard profiles are calculated on the thickness of the cloth of 10 mm. But how to insert a mirror with a thickness of 4 mm? To do this, the silicone seal is put on the edge of the mirror. In order for the broken glass in case of a strike, it should not praise anyone, you need to order a mirror with a film glued to the invalid side.

Door movement goes on the guides, they are installed on top and bottom. The lower doors provide forward-back movement, and the top fix the door relative to the depth of the cabinet.

The lower rollers are usually made of plastic, have a shock absorbing spring and a screw for adjusting height. Top rollers have a rubberized surface. With proper approach, homemade furniture is cheaper and better than displayed in stores. But besides this, it will be exclusive, accurately approach the needs of the owners and features of the room.

There is nothing difficult in creating a unique interior, but it will make it possible to realize your own creative ideas, while significantly saved the budget.

Homemade furniture
There are many ideas how to make wood furniture yourself.

In the article, you can find out why it is so important to use in order to create furniture with your own hands drawings and schemes, how to make calculations and much more.

Homemade furniture Pictures
Most popular uses wood furniture made by their own hands.

Drawings, schemes and projects for self-making

The primary stage of the work is the design. It should create drawings and sketches of furniture for self-making, with an accurate calculation of their size. As practice shows, the detailed layout will allow in the future to avoid alterations and excess material costs.

The big popularity of handmade-furniture is due to the fact that it does not require expensive materials.

The creation of the project includes several mandatory steps:

  • Decide with the place of installation of furniture.
  • Pouch the location scheme with the desired facade size.
  • Make an assembly detailed drawing, indicating the size of individual elements and fastening places.
  • Select material for manufacture. It is important to take into account not only financial capabilities, but also the complexity of processing. The most inexpensive and easy to use - sheets of chipboard and MDF. Wooden array is hardly processed, so it will be more suitable for experienced furniture makers.
  • Make a list and prepare the desired tool and small parts: accessories, screws, screws and mounting foam.
Most often, the furniture at home is made of wood, MDF or LDSP.

Additional Information. With independent design of furniture, a special program will help. Such a designer will help create a layout of the future product, as well as find and correct the shortcomings. The most popular: Pro-100, Kitchendraw, Woody.

Furniture scheme
To fasten parts from wood and its derivatives, self-tapping screws, nails, brackets and seasons are used, additionally amplifying the compounds.

Cabinet furniture

When constructing cabinet furniture, it is important to correctly perform the measurements of the room in which it will be located. It is necessary to measure the length of the rooms on the plinths and the height of the walls in different places, since it can differ significantly.

Drawing of cabinet furniture
The manufacture of cabinet furniture with their own hands begins with removal of measurements and drawing drawing.

Also follow:

  • Create a preliminary sketch, given the placement of communications. This is the location of windows, doors, sockets and switches. For a kitchen headset plus to everything take into account the presence of water supply pipes, gas and diverse of sewage, as well as household appliances.
  • Develop drawings of the entire set and each element separately.
  • Select the height of the furniture and the location of mounted cabinets so that they are comfortable in operation and comply with the growth of the owner.
Cabinet drawing photo
To unstantarly equip housing, you can try to make furniture with your own hands.

For the manufacture of wooden furniture, drawings and schemes are performed with their own hands as well as at any other. Special attention is paid to final work: the surface of the parts before assembly needs to be seized and covered with varnish or paint.

tree armchair
Drawings of furniture for self-making can be designed on paper with a pencil and eraser or use a simple and accessible program.

Important! It is recommended to treat wood with special means: moisture empty impregnation and protection against parasites.


Make a tamba just even for a novice wizard. Initially choose height, width and number of drawers. Then apply marking on the material and cut the blanks. You should also make accurate calculations of the location of the holes so that there are no distortion.

Homemade Tumba
If the cabinet is made with their hands with drawers, for them it is necessary to purchase special accessories - guide mechanisms.

Also, you will need:

  • Prepare accessories and edge for edge processing.
  • Buy wheels if they are provided and guides for boxes. They must be a good quality to be silent and durable.
  • Joiner adhesive for better fastening of blanks.

Final stage - drilling holes, material processing and assembly of the finished product.

Wooden bedside table
A bedside table may not only be an excellent element that will complement the interior of the room, but also a good option to emphasize the general atmosphere.


The table can be of different values ​​and configuration, so its choice directly depends on the room area. It can be with a circular, square, oval or curly worktop.

Desk pattern with crusades
The table is the subject of furniture, from the manufacture of which you can start your thorny path of knowledge of any newcomer-furniture.

Important stages of work:

  • Think over the location of the bedside tables and drawers, and take care of the acquisition of components.
  • Apply sizes on the working material.
  • For better fixation, lubricate the grooves with a joinery glue, secure the corners and self-drawing. Attach the worktop.
  • Grind the surface of the product, covered with primer and varnish.

Additional Information. Well save space will help the corner table. If you install it along the window, you can not mount the windowsill.


The wardrobes are the most comfortable furniture design due to the compact placement and are built-in partially or completely, straight or g-shaped.

Cabinet circuit
The wardrobe can be made according to its own sketch of various materials.

The manufacture of such a cabinet will require certain steps of work:

  1. Select design and measurement.
  2. Installation of the inner frame.
  3. Alignment of the position, climbing the slots, finishing the back and side walls.
  4. Installation of shelves, drawers.
  5. Fastening guides and installation of doors.
Wardrobe Coupe do it yourself
If you wish, you can make a wardrobe with your own hands from any available material, which will perfectly fit into the interior and will be the most functional as possible.

Important! If the ceiling indoors is tensioning, you should make the top wall of the cabinet, to which the guides will be attached.

Children's furniture

An independent manufacture of children's furniture consists of the same basic stages as the usual case. Here are many options for the implementation of fantasy - from compact "attics" to separate elements.

Children's bed do it yourself
Slipping a children's room, you need to treat every detail with all attention.

It is worth paying attention to such features:

  • Material for the manufacture of children's furniture should be high quality, better from natural wood.
  • The design should not contain sharp corners and protruding elements, which the child can be injured.
  • The furniture should be durable and stable so as not to fall and not injure children.

Important! It is not recommended to use toxic paint materials for coating products. Furniture, fabric and materials must be certified and safe, so as not to harm the health of the child.

Making furniture with your own hands

Production of any furniture is an interesting creative process, but will require time spending. To make it easier to ease it, you can pre-draw a CRAC cards for which the parts are cut out.

Chair do it yourself
To any ideas and drawings for children's furniture, you need to decide and decide which materials it will be made.

Cutting items better to do in the furniture workshop - it will be so smaller than dust and you do not need to buy an electrolybiz. The shadow shaping can also be ordered by a specialist or secure independently with an iron.

The most important process in the production of furniture is cutting LMDF and LDSP.

For a better understanding of the process, you can watch educational master classes, and start practicing better with simple interior items. There is nothing complicated in the manufacture of furniture with your own hands: you need to show some patience and zeal, and everything will work out.

Cabinet with your own hands
Despite the volume of labor, with all the materials that had to buy or order, the price tag turned out several times cheaper than when buying a finished furniture item in the store.

Video: how to make a chair-lounge with your own hands

Photo 50 ideas for the manufacture of furniture do it yourself

I design cabinet furniture so that people can make it with their own hands for a long time, for some time remotely. By those questions that you ask every time, you can make one conclusion - in order To make furniture with your own hands, step-by-step instructions are simply necessary . Intrusion, what questions I usually hear:

  • And you only make the design or inside we will also discuss where what shelves will be?
  • Will you give us Crawing cards so that we can order detail?
  • And on the maps will be denoted holes that are needed for the assembly? Who will do them?
  • How I recognize what accessulus will need to buy and what else will you need, you will tell me everything?
  • And the drawings for the assembly will be, or only the overall design that you draw us?

Questions, in general, are understandable and logical if they sounded in the same sequence that I listed. Usually it is not. Usually people care how the most difficult stage will occur. And all other stages, no less important, unconsciously "are issued" from attention. This should not be. If you do not adhere to step-by-step instructions, the process of making furniture will turn into a chaotic and unmanaged process. I am easy to issue all the work of the documentation. But, as practice shows, an unprepared person is simply confused in it, refuses the idea itself somehow save and do everything yourself. And in fact, it was necessary only to adhere to the sequence. As they say "appetite comes during a meal." So with furniture - it is enough to start consistently take certain actions and many frightening things become understandable and elementary.

Furniture with your own hands: step by step instruction briefly

The process of making furniture with their own hands can be divided into several stages:

  1. Drawing up a design project in full compliance with the size of the room, the requirements of ergonomics and the desired functionality.
  2. Development of internal filling of cabinets, tumb, tables and other furniture items. Search for an optimal reliable design for future furniture.
  3. Calculation of detailing of furniture, sizes of facades, compiling estimates for the purchase of fittings and components.
  4. Acquisition of materials, fittings, order cut details of future furniture with your own hands, facades.
  5. Drawing up specifications for spinning products. Maps are usually compiled only to send through holes to build enclosures. Inside fasteners for guide boxes, lifting mechanisms, loops, etc. Usually not denoted to avoid confusion. Otherwise, the risk of rebel to drill through where it was not planned, it will still remain.
  6. Assembling furniture housings.
  7. Fasteners of internal filling (drawers, bottled, mesh baskets, trousers, canopies, hooks, etc.).
  8. Fastening and adjustment of the facade part (installation of loops, gas lift, lifting, folding and sliding mechanisms, etc.), installation of furniture at the place.

At the furniture production, the first five stages are engaged in the "office", represented by the designer, designer-designer furniture and supplying. The last three stages lie on the shoulders of the shop - the assemblers and master masters. Consider each stage of the step-by-step instructions for the manufacture of furniture with their own hands more.

Development of design project

Development of furniture design project
Development of furniture design project

At this stage, the external appearance of the furniture is being worked out, all the options for the arrangement in the room are considered, the optimal one is selected. It is important to take into account not only the aesthetic criteria for evaluating the external design of furniture. But also make furnishings comfortable for use. For this there are requirements for ergonomics and functionality that must be observed. Furniture should be exactly as much as required to accommodate all personal belongings. No one needs the heap of the "towns" from the cabinets in the house. Like the furniture that is impossible to use for storage.

Development of design and internal filling

Development of the design and internal filling of furniture
Development of the design and internal filling of furniture

This stage of step-by-step instructions for the manufacture of cabinet furniture are closely related to the first. At the stage of compiling design project, the requirements for functionality and filling are put forward. For example, why do I need a beautiful wardrobe? After all, I want to hang clothes into it (it must be the corresponding depth of the shoulders) and store shoes in it (pull-out drawers or shelves are laid). In the process of design, you have to make compromises. Someone, let's say, always dreamed, so that in the kitchen, drying the dishes is located in the drawer. But the size of the room itself, the need to position the dishwasher, washing, stove in the lower row of the kitchen tables, the refrigerator is not allowed to highlight the place under such a table with a drawer. So, from his dreams will have to refuse. Also, it is not always possible to realize exactly the designer design, which I liked in some interior journal or on the thematic site. When developing, the possibilities of materials are taken into account. A chipboard, as a material, is not able to take bizarre bends, as permissible, an array or molded acrylic. Often, light, weightless designs are simply impossible to implement. Honestly, some pictures from the Internet cause perplexity of furniture makers. As, for example, this.

Example of an impossible furniture project
Example of an impossible furniture project

Similar retractable stools by weight can endure except cat. If, of course, inside the cabinet does not constitute a powerful steel structure (otherwise the fasteners of the retractable mechanisms simply will pull out of the HDSP under weight).

Calculation of detail, compilation of estimation and CARD CARD

Only after the approval of the design project and the internal filling of furniture is transferred to the calculations of the detail and the compilation of the estimate and purchase of materials, components, and accessories. Detail is calculated. I use a simple exece table. In addition to the numbering, the names of parts and overall dimensions, it is indicated, for what parties the ends of the ends will be carried out.

Calculation of detail for furniture do it yourself
Calculation of detail for furniture do it yourself

Detailing is then postponed to a special cutting program. In general, Crow cards are needed more for visual control. Many furniture organizations engaged in Croem LDSP use their software and interrupt parts for their CRODA cards.

Circle cards for making furniture with your own hands
Circle cards for making furniture with your own hands

Facades are not always produced from sheet material. Therefore, for them, CRAC cards are not compiled, only overall dimensions are indicated. BUT! When using sheet material with a picture of Crazy card simply needed. This is especially important for kitchens, where cabinets are close to each other - the drawing on the facades should "flow" from one door to another to look integer and neatly. According to the list of accessories, everything you need is purchased for the assembly. Without maps of zverdlovka, it is impossible to calculate the number of hardware that will be required for the assembly. Highlights are called small fasteners: configmatics, self-tapping screws, nails, screws, etc. But the rest of the accessories, in the form of guides, canopies, loops, pens, etc. You can calculate and purchase in full.

Studying Specifications for Zverdlovka

After you ordered the cut parts, purchased the fittings, you will have time to draw up and examine the map of Zverlovka.

Zverdlovka, assembly drawing
Zverdlovka, assembly drawing

To compile assembly drawings and the designation of the Zverdlovka (some furniture makers call the additive, I use the program Basis furniture. The only drawback is not the "mirror" details. That is, on the sidewalls of the cabinet, logically located mirrors with respect to each other, the fasteners will be denoted completely equally. But you will have to make a zverdlovka from different sides - because the confirmation of a specific expanding form requires a zenkovka. This is the only nuance on the maps of Zverdlovka. It is required to keep the wardrobe drawing in your head, any other furniture to understand which side turn the part to drill holes. In fact, it is easy. Tip serve and laid parties to the details. After all, sunk ends can only be with the visible, facelights of the furniture. In places, the connection parts are not traced for a more dense adjustment.

Put the details for the manufacture of furniture with your own hands
Put the details for the manufacture of furniture with your own hands

Build buildings

When the furniture housing is made pre-severchable as a designer. There are several nuances - for example, fastener "helicopter", when to connect coaxial parts, it is necessary to deploy them perpendicular to each other. All such nuances will be discussed in the section "Design Moments".

Fasteners and adjustment of internal filling

When fixing internal fittings, it is necessary to rely on the information in the attached instructions. Manufacturers of components are well aware of the nuances of fastening and adjustment of the outdoor accessories. Nowhere, you will not get more complete and relevant information except in the instructions - they supply all more or less complex furniture mechanisms. If suddenly the instruction seemed incomprehensible or written in a foreign language, one option remains - contact Google. There is a lot of videos that will help you visually familiarize yourself with the process of installing a fastener.

Fasteners and facades

Only after the installation of the furniture housing with their own hands in the planned design project is carried out a hitch and adjustment of facades. If the floors are uneven, the doors are noticeably saved forward, it makes sense to make substrates under the base. There is no meaning to engage in fastener and adjustment of the facade part of the placement of furniture - guarantees that the floors will be there the same smooth (or uneven) there are no.

Here, in general, and all the steps of step-by-step instructions for the manufacture of cabinet furniture with their own hands. I hope the information was useful to you.

It all started from the cabinet: In 2015, my husband and I decided that we had a place for storing anything on the balcony - from jams with jam to skis.

Anastasia Artyukh

Makes furniture

We live in Moscow in a typical panel treshka. The balcony is short and narrow here: two meters in length and meter in width.

We wanted to order a wardrobe to get up Letter P. By three outer walls of the balcony. Standard furniture depth of 40 cm did not fit: at the entrance to the room such a wardrobe blocked half the doorway, and from the opposite side - blocked Half the window. The perfect option is a depth of 25 cm, but I did not meet in such furniture stores.

The husband remembered that the colleague was told how the drawings did himself, and then collected the necessary furniture. We decided to make the perfect cabinet, which will fit into the sizes of our balcony. And in order to store not only the little things, but also dimensional items, such as skiing.

On materials we spent about 23 thousand rubles. If you do not take into account the time while I was waiting for delivery, then all the troubles took one and a half weeks. To order same Cabinet at Masters would faster, but would be At least one third is more expensive.

Sketch of the cabinet

First of all, it was necessary to draw a sketch of the cabinet to understand how the finished model would look like in principle: how many shelves, bedside tables and so on. Then the sketch turned into a full-fledged drawing with dimensions and various technical details such as methods for fastening parts among themselves. But at the first stage I just tried to visualize my desires.

Before you get draw sketch, you can walk on the sites of furniture stores in search of original ideas. For example, so I seen the idea of ​​a two-color cabinet with a removable TV in our large room and a multi-level shelf project, which we then transformed into the nightstand - I will tell you about it below. With a balcony cabinet it did not come out. I looked at the photos on the websites of furniture stores, but ideas, which would I was inspired, did not find. I had to fantasize.

Sketch painted from hand on a sheet A4. The first drawings did not like it: Standard solutions came to mind - column cabinets, or, as they are also called, penalties, as well as banal bedside tables.

I detected options one after one until the idea appeared to make a tabletop all over the perimeter of the balcony. Husband before that complained that he was not prevented Additional workstation to instill. Under the table top there are bedside tables for storing things and refrigerators. On the sides of this design, we added two vertical cabinets.

An important point for which I advise you to pay special attention is the curvature of walls and corners in the apartment. We did the cabinet to the entire balcony, from the wall to the wall. It turned out that the countertop should not be rectangular, one edge should be done for a couple of centimeters wider.

Measure every little thing. There is a suspicion that direct angles in Russian apartments do not happen.

So looked sketch of our cabinet
So looked sketch of our cabinet

What materials are needed

When the sketch of the cabinet was ready, we began to choose a place where we buy the material and cut it. There were no accurate drawing with the size of each detail at this stage. The fact is that each company that is engaged in the cut, its own rules for placing the order and drawings. Therefore, it is better to first choose a warehouse, then go to the company's website and see what they require clients and their drawings.

We decided to make a wardrobe from the most common material for furniture - LDSP, laminated wood chipboard. LDSP is made of pressed chips. Such plates go on the side, upper and lower surfaces of the cabinets, as well as the facades - the front panels and doors. Of of the same Material makes shelves.

LDSP is usually sold by large sheets. For example, famous manufacturers of "Kronospan" and "Egger" produce plates 2.8 × 2 m . Whole sheet is enough for a large wardrobe. But he is heavy and completely from the store home to deliver problematic. In Lerua Merlené, I saw sheets and smaller sizes. More plates are different thickness: 10, 16, 20, 25 and 32 mm. Most often sell LDSP 16 mm thick. The price of a large leaf ranges from 1800 to 3500 Р.

Another material that was needed - HDF, from high density fiberboard, high density wood-fibrous stove. These are a thickness of 3 mm thick, of which the rear walls of cabinets and bottom drawers are usually made.

HDF sheets are also different colors.
HDF sheets are also different colors.

On the ends of the details from the LDSP glued the edge. It is a PVC tape that covers the ugly spoken edge. The ends of the details that will not be visible after the assembly is optional. This applies to, for example, the sides and rear parts of the shelves, which are adjacent to the walls of the case. Usually, the edge is chosen under the color of the LDSP, but I saw in the store beds with a contrast edge - it looked good.

We ourselves never applied the edge on the LDSP - asked to do it there where they bought and saw sheets. The price depended on the thickness of the tape. The edge of 0.4 mm was worth 61 Рper meter, and fat, 2 mm, - 71 Р. I advise you not to save, because the thin tape can start peeling.

If you believe rollers on the Internet, stick the ribbon is easy and yourself. The main thing is to do it slowly and gently so that the edge does not move. In Lerua Merlené, you can buy sheets of chipboard of different sizes, which is already applied.

If you leave the end item without & nbsp; edges, it will look slightly. Photo: "Viir"
If you leave the end item without edge, it will look slightly. Photo: "Viir"

Where to buy and saw materials

We had two options. The first is to buy LDSP in a construction store, and then search for a workshop where the plates are squeezed by our drawings. The second is to immediately turn to a specialized warehouse where the materials trade and right They are cut.

In construction stores You can buy sheets of different colors. But there is no big diversity with shades. If I want something Unusual, you will have to paint on your own. Another option is to contact the firm that specializes in furniture materials. There is more choice.

If you buy chipboard in the construction store, ask, Saw Lie There are sheets. In some such a service provide. For example, in Lerua Merlené, it costs 35 РFor one cut, and in "Obi" when we learned, it was generally free.

Place the details on the LDSP sheet will have to be independently in the store, and it is important to use a leaf area to the maximum. Drill holes under fasteners will have to somewhere In another place, the store will not do this. Therefore, I advise you to contact immediately into a specialized company. Spend less nerves.

In our case there was another reason why we did not apply to the store: the cabinet was obtained from several dozen items, some of the complex shape. It was more convenient to sit down and think about all at home, and then go to order LDSP and cut it. I also did not want to carry sheets on myself in the store, wait until we saw all this, and then think about delivery. If it was about a small bedside table - of course, easier would Immediately go to the construction hypermarket.

How to spend and save

We tell in our newsletter twice a week. Subscribe to cope with the budget

In firms that sell and saw LDSP, It makes sense to ask Lit can Do not buy a sheet entirely. In the company where we usually buy, it depends on Lie fall Plates of the desired color in the so-called warehouse program.

Warehouse program are sheets of chipboard of those colors that are in the greatest demand. Most often it is white, gray or decorated under the wood sheets. Such material is not sold by sheets, but by robbed or square meters 1000-1500 Рfor meter. WHY LDSP of the same colors are cheaper, and the other is more expensive, I do not know. Apparently, the production technology of overlay, that is, the upper layer of different colors, differs. And the basis of all plates is the same - glue and chips.

If you need a material of an unusual color, such as "blue ice", as in our case, you will have to buy a sheet entirely. After the details you need come out of it, the remnants can be carried away with you.

Colors from a warehouse program in the firm where we buy material. Mostly it is "wooden" shades, as well as white and gray
Colors from a warehouse program in the firm where we buy material. Mostly it is "wooden" shades, as well as white and gray

In addition to cutting in the joiners, you can make additives - so called the holes for fasteners. The size and shape of the holes depend on the type of fastener. It turns out better than to drill the drill itself. Additives will be done on the machine with numeric software control: the wizard will enter the size of the sizes, and the device drills everything up to a millimeter. True, when we collected your cabinet then at home and needed to make a few extra holes, my husband himself coped.

Weighing the pros and cons, we decided to find a furniture or joiner, which will sell LDSP, and At once Make details on our drawings.

Dozens of such firms in Moscow. For example, "1pil", " Cutting-cut "," BDB-furniture " We turned to the "Seagull" company: I ordered a familiar husband in her. The only moment that does not suit is delivery: drivers bring an order to the entrance, and before their floor everything needs to be dragged on their own. Bridge only on weekdays. Shipping cost - 2500 Р. You can come to the warehouse by car and pick up the order, but it will turn out only if there are few parts and they fit into the trunk. If you buy doors for a two-meter cabinet, you need a truck.

All such companies have one unpleasant feature: they do not publish the price of materials on their sites, and this is the most essential part of the total amount. For example, in the "Seagull" you need to fill the order form, specify the dimensions of the parts, the number and type of holes for fasteners and accessories. Then they will send an account where only one amount will stand - how much will have to pay for everything. because of This is not possible to compare prices in different firms until you leave an application. We did not make orders in several firms to compare prices, but simply rely on the recommendations of the friend.

After we have decided on who will cut and drill parts, we sat down to draw an accurate drawing of each wall, shelves, doors, pointing, where and what will be holes for fasteners and accessories. Right They stated from which side to apply the edge.

This looked like the details drawing for & nbsp; one of the cabinet bedside tables. Figures & nbsp; 3, 4 and 5 marked holes under & nbsp; screed, 6 and 7 - under & nbsp; evrovint. In the "seagull" they ask for a hole for & nbsp; each type of fastening was designated by its digit. R50 - it drank with a radius of 50 mm under & nbsp; plinth, "h" - drank for & nbsp; tabs of the rear wall of the HDF
This looked like our drawing of details for one of the cabinet bedside tables. Figures 3, 4 and 5 marked holes under the screed, 6 and 7 - under Evrovint. In the "seagull" they ask for a hole for each type of fastening with its digit. R50 - it drank it with a radius of 50 mm under the plinth, "h" - drank for the back wall of the HDF



Wardrobe We started to draw from the housing: left wall, right wall, cover, bottom and base. With the rear wall, it is usually all clear: in fact, it is just a rectangular piece of HDF of the desired size.

We sharpened my closet, but it is likely that it was easier to use a special program - they are full of them on the Internet. Already when everything was ready, learned that there is a convenient free program from the Blum accessories manufacturer - "Dynalog". It automatically calculates the dimensions of the parts for cabinet furniture, and also places the places where the openings should be for fastening the accessories. True, it does not put holes that are designed to fasten the details with each other. Therefore, it is necessary either to seek another program that draws additives, or draw these holes manually, or then reserved in finished items.

In the "dynalog" you need to specify the type and parameters of the cabinet itself. "Standard Wardrobe" - a regular bedside table
In the "dynalog" you need to specify the type and parameters of the cabinet itself. "Standard Wardrobe" - a regular bedside table
After that, specify the parameters of the boxes inside the case
After that, specify the parameters of the boxes inside the case
The designer will show the appearance of the future cabinet.
The designer will show the appearance of the future cabinet.
As a result, the user will receive a facade drawing with holes for & nbsp; fastening of a box
As a result, the user will receive the drawing of the facade with the holes for fastening the drawer
Designer will give the dimensions of all parts
Designer will give the dimensions of all parts

Working with the "dynalogue", you need to remember about one moment. The program was created to design furniture for kitchens. Cabinets here are usually installed on adjustable plastic legs, which are then closed with a plastic basement.

The program does not know how to design cabinets with a basement from LDSP, namely, such a furniture for bedrooms and living rooms. Of course, no one bothers to design a wardrobe in the room in the dynalogue and put small legs under it, but it will rush into the eyes. And the base of LDSP is more practical base: less dust is assembled under the closet.

Chocol from chipboard looks gravy in furniture that do not put on the kitchen. Photo: "Ikea"
Chocol from chipboard looks gravy in furniture that do not put on the kitchen. Photo: "Ikea"


Cabinet doors

The cabinet doors are contributing and overhead. Overhead door as if Hanging on the closet, covering the ends of the side walls. Just such a door is shown in the picture above. The deposit door is in the opening of the whole. In my opinion, the contributable doors look good when they are small.

For our closet, the overhead doors were uniquely needed. True, we had a countertop over part of the doors - it was necessary to take into account this subtlety.

It happens that the two doors are close to each other, for example, if the wardrobe is double. In this case, it is necessary to provide a gap between the doors so that they do not cling to each other when you open them.

My husband and I did simply: I measured the gap from the cabinet, which was bought in the store, and provided a gap The same size.

So the contribution door looks like
So the contribution door looks like


Retractable drawers

There are no drawers in our closet for the balcony. We encountered this headache when they did another closet to the bedroom. I will tell you about these boxes need to know at the stage of drawings.

In the project it is necessary to take into account not only the boxes themselves, but also the box where they are inserted. The problem is that you must not forget about the place for internal mechanisms: both the boxes are hung on the walls inside the cabinet. Guides are a mechanism, thanks to which the box is extended from the bedside table.

Guides are two types: ball and roller. Balls are more expensive, but they have more smooth. Roller can be installed on drawers that are rarely used.

Ball guides
Ball guides
Roller guides
Roller guides

Guides can be complete and partial extension. The first allow you to push the entire drawer, the second - no: part of the box remains inside. Direct partial extension cheaper.

On the site Same "Seagulls" There is a special designer, which calculates the size of drawers and doors for Wardrobes coupe . It is enough to specify the width of the opening, and the system will give the drawing with all the dimensions, increments and other things.

In the "Seagulls" designer, it is enough to enter the width and height of the opening, as well as the height of the box of the drawer - and the system itself will create a drawing
In the "Seagulls" designer, it is enough to enter the width and height of the opening, as well as the height of the box of the drawer - and the system itself will create a drawing
After the calculation, the user will receive an order form for details
After the calculation, the user will receive an order form for details

We did not fit the "Seagulls" designer. It turned out that he calculates the gaps only for the accessories of the manufacturer "Boyard". Collecting later a nightstand with drawers in the bedroom, I knew in advance that I would use Blum's guides: we had already furniture with such fittings. They look very reliable. You hold in your hands and understand: even if the wardrobe falls apart from old age, accessories can be used again. And even the boxes with the Blum guides are highly smooth. The only thing that can confuse is the price: 4300 РFor the kit. For comparison, "Boyard" Same Length costs 678. Р.

In the instructions for each Blum guide, the sizes that need to be considered when designing are specified. The scheme looks very difficult - you want to close the instructions and never open again. But if you start to understand, everything becomes clear.

Blum guides are rather big, therefore it is necessary to provide in the drawing under & nbsp; they are space between the boxes
Blum's guides are rather big, therefore it is necessary to provide a place in the drawing between the boxes
Instructions for Blum accessories look like a drawing of a cosmolete. But if you start to understand, everything becomes clear
Instructions for Blum accessories look like a drawing of a cosmolete. But if you start to understand, everything becomes clear


How to make money on a credit card

We tell how to use a credit card and receive money where others are losing them

Start learning


Fittings and loops

In addition to guides, you need other fittings - different trivia: door handles, hooks, loops, door lift mechanisms. Holes for all this should also be provided in the drawing.

It is important to calculate the amount of loops in advance for each door. Open the official website of the manufacturer of fittings and see what maximum weight is withstanding the loop. If it is incorrect to calculate the load, then the door turns, stops tightly closed, starts to creak.

Find out how much the facade weighs from the desired size, you can on the Internet. There are both signs, calculators. I calculated the mass on my own - according to the school formula:

M = ρ × V, V = H × L × T, where m is a mass, ρ - density, h and l - height and width, respectively, T is thick.

In our case, the density of the LDSP was 680 kg / m³ , thickness - 0.16 m.

It turned out that there are two loops with a height of 60 cm on each cabinet. For comparison, five pieces will need a two-meter door.

We expected that at least one loop with a closer - a mechanism that smoothly closes a discontinuous door. If the door is small, then you can take one loop for it without a closer and save a little on it.

There are hinges that open the door when you click on it. But they are more expensive - and for the cabinet to the balcony, to my mind This is an excess. We planned to put the loops of the simplest design - these needed nine pieces. We also had one non-standard long closet under the table top - for ski storage. He has no side walls, they are replaced by the walls of the balcony, and the doors are attached to the adjacent closet. I had to get out and foreseen four loops under the Fakeup.

For the loops of the company "Blum", which we used, we must separately buy special attachments - retaliatory planks. But most often the planks come in the kit. Just in case, I advise you to consult the seller.

Loop and retast plank to her
Loop and retast plank to her


Additives and fasteners

The most difficult stage is to consider where the additives for fasteners and fittings will be located. In general, a separate article can be written about fasteners and holes.

We used five types of fasteners: confirmation, power supplies, mortise waders, intercreational and eccentric ties.

When you need to make two details, we use either confirmation or an eccentric screed. Confirmates We use where there is no need to make a hidden fastening, that is, where the screw cap will not be visible.

Everywhere, where the confirmation cannot be used, since it will be noticeable, you have to use two eccentric ties, and between them one wanks. Can would Everywhere the use of eccentric ties, but they are more expensive than confirmates, and it's a little more with them.

The workshops are asking for a hole for & nbsp; each type of fastening was designated its digit. We use such designations: 1 - hole under the & nbsp; mortise wanning in the end of the part, 2 is a hole under the & nbsp; mortise waders in the parts plane, 3 + 4 - hole under the & nbsp; the screed in the end of the part and so & nbsp; more. It is convenient: then you don't have to guess how to mount. And it is also convenient to consider how much you need to fasten each type
Workshops are asking for a hole for each type of fastening with its digit. We use such designations: 1 - a hole under the mortise wand in the end of the part, 2 - a hole under the liner waders in the parts plane, 3 + 4. - Hole under the tie in the end of the part and so on. It is convenient: then you don't have to guess how to mount. And it is also convenient to consider how much you need to fasten each type
This is what the mount on the screed looks, if you look from the inside of the cabinet. Outside the holes are not visible
This is what the mount on the screed looks, if you look from the inside of the cabinet. Outside the holes are not visible


Pages and drank

One piece of furniture can be simply inserted into another without any fixtures - usually so you can insert HDF in LDSP. But in this case, it is necessary to cut the grooves or a quarter in the wood-chip plate.

The grooves and a quarter do on the milling machine - also in the workshop. The groove is needed to insert the XDF in the chipboard and make the bottom of the boxes. Quarter choose to get a deepening in which the HDF is inserted as the back wall of the case.

When we design drawers, always do the bottom of the HDF: This allows you to save 13 mm internal space, because LDSP is thicker. The bottom of the HDF is inserted into the grooves that are made in the box walls. From the HDF make the back wall of the cabinets. So that nothing was franto, in the details of the cabinet case, you need to cut a quarter, in depth equal to the thickness of the HDF.

Drilling holes-additives, milling, drank, roundings and other similar things can be ordered there where they make cut. It will cost about 10% of the price of the material.

Figured drank "under & nbsp; a quarter." When we put the back wall, the cropped ugly edge will not be visible
Figured drank "under quarter." When we put the back wall, the cropped ugly edge will not be visible

In general, the wardrobe drawing went about 10 hours. But I am bad draw, so I first did everything on paper, and then spent time and transferred the images to the computer. If you do immediately in the graphics program, it will be very faster. As far as I know, the workshops take the hand-drawn and scanned drawings.

As a result, 23 pages of drawings came out.

What details we needed for the cabinet

Detail amount
Confirmates 40.
Details from LDSP 16 mm thick for walls, facades and shelves 34.
Polkteroders 16
Loops and response thirteen
Doorknobs 6
Table tops 5
Details from LDSP thick 25 mm for table top 3
Details from HDF for rear walls 3
Screeds for connecting sections 2

Details from LDSP 16 mm thick for walls, facades and shelves

34 pieces

Loops and response

13 pieces

Table tops

5 items

Details from LDSP thick 25 mm for table top

3 pieces

Details from HDF for rear walls

3 pieces

Screeds for connecting sections

2 pieces

It is good that we did not have to consider how many large sheets of LDSP would need: this is already care of the masters. Then I estimate that for our design it took two plates with a thickness of 16 mm - on the shelves, doors and walls - and another thickness of 25 mm, for the table top.

Finished drawings we sent an email to the "seagull". Two days later, an account came, which I paid from my mobile bank. Details for the cabinet cost 18,400 Р.

This is how our order looked: 23 drawings, three order form, 37 details from LDSP
This is how our order looked: 23 drawings, three order form, 37 details from LDSP
This is how the application for chipboard 16 mm looked for & nbsp; our cabinet on the balcony
This is how the application for chipboard 16 mm looked for our cabinet to the balcony.
In addition to the parts for the cabinet on the balcony, we ordered several sheets of LDSP for & nbsp; other needs, so in the score amount more than 18,400 <Span class = RUBLE> P </ SPAN>
In addition to the details for the cabinet on the balcony, we ordered several sheets of LDSP for other needs, so in the score amount more than 18,400 Р

Cabinet assembly

While the workshop prepared our order, we bought fasteners and fittings. Door handles and police supplied in Same "Seagull." In the store of household goods, the policemen were cheaper, but there they are not sold individually, but by packaging 50-100 pieces . We were so much not necessary. On Eurovints, we saved: the necessary found at home. Fasteners and handles cost 1222 Р.

We bought loops from official representatives of Blum. Such hinges sell the company "PCTORG" and "INTERCOMPLEKT". There is no particular difference between these two stores, just sometimes in one may be cheaper than in another. In 2015, loops cost us at 3162 Р, now same Set costs 4668. Р.

Two weeks later, it came to SMS that everything is ready. Nearly At once called the manager and asked I need delivery. Plates spotted on the details of LDSP and HDF brought three days later.

Assembly is the simplest stage. The husband collected a wardrobe alone. Truth, Some His experience was already: a few years before that, we bought a bed and bedside tables to her disassembled. If you doubt your abilities, you can find an assistant on Yudu.

The joiners stick to each detail a small form with the order number, so it is immediately visible where the right wall, and where left. But it happens that, looking at the item, you will not understand the go, where the top, and where the bottom. From the moment of ordering before receiving the chipboard, a couple of weeks passes - the drawings are forgotten.

For such stickers, we focus on & nbsp; assembling furniture. 6613 - this is the number of the company, and 7 - the part number from our order form
Here on such stickers, we focus when assembling furniture. 6613 - this is the number of the company, and 7 - the part number from our order form

We had a funny case with a bedside table. We collected a frame, but the last detail did not turn out the holes to attach it to the rest of the design. Opened the drawing - holes in place. It turned out that when assembling we confused similar details. If not a list of parts and drawing, we are probably accused Masters who saw LDSP. I advise you to keep all your records and drawings at hand.

Assembly husband started from the right lower corner: Assembled the base for one legs Letters P. . After that mounted the same The basis from the opposite side of the balcony is the left leg P. . Then put on top of the worktop. The holes for the screed in the tabletop had to drill on the spot: it turned out that our balcony and straight corners were incomplete things. When the foundation of the cabinet was ready, the spouse helped the doors.

Not without problems. When we joined the shelf to one of the vertical racks, it turned out that the holes for fasteners on the details are too far from each other. Apparently, we were mistaken in the calculations at the stages of the drawings. My husband had to re-measure and take the drill.

Already later, when we all collected, the idea of ​​adding the shelves on the one hand appeared. We ordered additional parts in production and improved the wardrobe.

The assembly took less than one day. We were overwhelmed by pride: the forces spent a lot, but the result was pleased.

Spent on details, accessories and fasteners for the cabinet on the balcony in 2015 - 22 835 Р

Details from LDSP 16 mm with edges and additives, 34 pcs. 11 209. Р
Details from LDSP 25 mm, 3 pcs. 6749. Р
Loops and response strips, 13 pcs. 3162. Р
Door handles, 6 pcs. 660. Р
Details from HDF, 3 pcs. 493. Р
Table tops, 5 pcs. 380. Р
Screeds for connecting sections, 2 pcs. 150. Р
Power holders, 16 pcs. 32. Р
Evrovintage, 40 pcs. Р

Details from LDSP 16 mm with edges and additives, 34 pcs.

11 209. Р

Details from LDSP 25 mm, 3 pcs.

6749. Р

Loops and response strips, 13 pcs.

3162. Р

Door handles, 6 pcs.

660. Р

Details from HDF, 3 pcs.

493. Р

Table tops, 5 pcs.

380. Р

Screeds for connecting sections, 2 pcs.

150. Р

Power holders, 16 pcs.

32. Р

How much we saved

Our cabinet is a unique model. I have not seen such on sale. I tried to calculate how much it turned out to save. To do this, found a firm on the Internet that manufactures furniture for balconies.

The cheapest set of the cabinet and the cabinet costs 15.5 thousand rubles. Prices for such furniture class above - from 19 thousand. We, in fact, two such sets are already 38 thousand rubles. Add to this worktop, ski storage closet under it - about 11 thousand more. TOTAL - 49 thousand. Our homemade cost 23 thousand. Let for six years prices and rose, but not exactly twice.

Prices for cabinets for & nbsp; balcony in furniture workshop
Prices for balconies in the furniture workshop

Cabinet in the bedroom and bedside tables

After assembling this balcony cabinet, we twice did the furniture with our own hands. For example, we needed a large wardrobe in the living room - from the wall to the wall, a little more than four meters long. I found the project in the online store that I liked, however, a little smaller size. It was a two-color wardrobe with drawers, a large ward compartment and open sections. He took it as the basis of his drawing, but increased the length.

The result cost about 50 thousand rubles - 30 thousand cheaper than the original.

Our homemade cabinet to the whole wall
Our homemade cabinet to the whole wall

Our last project is two bedside tables. We decided to replace the headsets in the bedroom. We went to the store, chose the bed and bedside tables in the catalog. When they began to make an order, it turned out that there are no blue. They looked like other stores, did not find anything suitable, in the end we decided to do it yourself.

We spent 12 hours and designed two bedside tables: one easier, with three drawers, another - with a superstructure of several shelves. True, when the material came to order, it turned out that the chief of the right colors is not in stock. I had to choose from what was.

Material, cutting, fasteners and fittings cost us 58 thousand. The main part of the costs came to the guides for drawers "Blum": 30 thousand. If Chose a budget option, could save about 25 thousand. In addition, three colors left the bedside tables at once. Choose we are the material of other shades, They would spend more thousands of six less - would meet in 27 thousand.

A pair of designer bedside tables in the store costs from 50 thousand rubles. TO the same After cutting the ldp for the nightstairs, we took home a lot of remnants of the material.

Prices for designer bedside tables
Prices for designer bedside tables
The idea of ​​the table with the add-on came CO & NBSP; I
The idea of ​​a bedside table came to me after I saw this bookshelf. Photo: "Seagull"
My bedside table with & nbsp; add-in and & nbsp; modest husband's bedside table
My bedside table and a humble bedside table
My bedside
My bedside

How else can you save

  1. Reduce the number of drawers: When we made bedside tables, more than half of all spending were gone to the boxes for the boxes. If a Some Boxes will be rarely used, they can be put on the cheapest accessories.
  2. Use LDSP of those colors that are in demand. This is usually black, white and imitation of a tree. The materials of these shades are almost always available and cost cheaper.
  3. Do not apply the edge where it will not be visible - for example, from the sides that the furniture is adjacent to the wall.
  4. Do not order the delivery of the material, and rent a cargo taxi. According to my calculations, the hourly payment of the car, which Brought We are LDSP for the cabinet, would have come out Cheaper than delivery.

Case furniture manufacturing technology with their own hands

Case furniture manufacturing technology with their own hands

Each person seeks to organize its space in such a way that the maximum comfort is felt. However, in addition to a worthy aesthetic species, its functionality is important, so the cabinet furniture is made with their own hands by many residents of country houses and summer cottages. Many in this case do not have experience, so they often turn to ready-made instructions.

Necessary materials and tools

Before studying the assembly process, it is primarily important to prepare the necessary tools:

  1. Screwdriver. It will be needed to twist various details: bolts, confirm, screws. With their help, compile with the prepared parts of the fittings are mandatory. There is an alternative assembly method - with the help of ordinary screwdrivers, but in this case, the whole process can delay for a long time, and not every person has such an opportunity.
  2. It is desirable to immediately purchase drills of different diameter. In many building stores, they are sold complete (from 4.5 to 10mm). It will also save time for the search for all necessary materials, the more such a tool can be useful in the future;
  3. Separately acquired a drill for confirmation. In this case, drill a hole in 5 mm in a very short time. For the step without special costs, the hole expands to 7mm;
  4. To high quality and tightly spin the confirmation, it is recommended to purchase a hexagon. Alternatively, some homemade craftsmen use a surnupture equipped with special bits, but it is impossible to crash with such a design to hard-to-reach places;
  5. Forcelarel drill must have every wishes to collect cabinet furniture, because with its help hinges and other fittings are twisted;
  6. Markup accessories: ruler, pencil or bright marker, metal square, roulette, knife for office;
  7. Circular saw;
  8. Lobzik electric;
  9. Hammer, preferably with a nail-holder (need if it is necessary to disassemble individual elements);
  10. Dryer construction.

If the furniture does not have any features, when assembling, it is recommended to use universal schemes that are calculated on the angle of drilling 90 degrees. Unfortunately, such a device cannot be called a budget option, so this acquisition is advisable only when the assembly becomes professional fishery.

Furniture do it yourself

Manufacturing technologies

Answering the question of how to make cabinet furniture at home, we divide the whole process into several stages.

Cutting parts that make up the overall design

When working with chipboard is planned, it is impossible without cutting. With the help of the machine we saw the chipboard, in which all the workpieces are distributed in advance. This will help reduce material consumption. It is recommended to use a high-performance machine, due to which the optimal heating frequency is achieved, since the cutting saw is installed here.

It is easier to work with already ready laminated chipboard plates. In stores you can buy options covered with a decorative layer for every taste. Of these, only cut the necessary details will remain. If the furniture is made of raw raw materials, then you need to have cut out parts. Facing can be performed by self-adhesive film or special plastic.

Meat stoves chipboard

Perform measurement

Cut laminated chipboard

Making a cutting machine

Treatment of slices

Before assembled outline parts, you need to process sections. To do this, use the edge tape on the adhesive basis. Before work, it is important to pay attention to the conditions indoors:

  • The percentage of humidity must be as low as possible;
  • It must be warm to avoid the deformation of the material.

For stacking parts, the edge ribbon is prepared by a maquet or construction knife and an ordinary iron. Most often, the edge is sold with an already sticky layer, and additional surface treatment is not required.

You can use professional iron. In the process of work, it is important to keep it at a certain distance from the surface to avoid displacements and firmly consolidate all the details in its places.

It is important to remember that the iron should be held on the edge a small amount of time, otherwise it will overheat and go with bubbles. As soon as the edge gain and take a certain position, we take a knife, cut the edge and clean all the irregularities using the sandbreaker.

Processing servers tree

Cut extra details

How to glue a furniture edge

Glue edge

Marking Points for Accessories

Ready parts need to be decomposed on a flat surface. Next, note the places of attachment of the fittings, in accordance with the plan of the finished product. Check for all sizes, the error is only 1 mm can provoke a skew of the entire design. The lockers will stop opening, the doors will be incorrect. Next, you need to drill all the holes of the required diameter to fix the elements of the fittings.

Cabinet details

Lay out parts on the floor

We make markup on furniture

Create marking

Drilling through the conductor

Drill holes

Fastening accessories

Fresh fitness


After working with accessories is completed, go to the assembly of all elements. Many newbies in this case preliminarily addate video instructions where not only the order of assembling a certain model is shown, but also have practical advice, as not to confuse the whole process. We collect nodes. This is the final stage, when all prepared parts must be assembled into a single design. It is important to perform all operations sequentially.

Build cabinets

Step-by-step instruction

First you need to determine what makes cabinet furniture is made. The most common and affordable materials are considered LDSP, Fiberboard or Chipboard. An array of wood is more reliable and stronger, but it is more expensive, and it's more difficult to work with it.


All instructions for creating cabinet furniture can be divided into two stages. The first is the design of cabinet furniture. This stage implies an artistic or graphic image of all elements (cabinet furniture drawings). This is a difficult event, because the project scheme must be developed correctly, helping visualizing the necessary furniture functionality.

A few years ago, such a project could develop an exclusively qualified designer, but with the help of modern applications and programs, you can work on the task yourself. To make a clear plan for designing cabinet furniture with your own hands, it is worth determining which information should contain:

  1. On a separately plan, you need to draw the overall design of the room to visualize the position and type of cabinet furniture;
  2. All dimensions are entered into the project - dimensions, height, depth;
  3. All items are being worked out that will perform the base of cabinet furniture, drawings of facades are made with the desired dimensions;
  4. Separate texture, color solution.

On the Internet you can find special 3D programs with which it is possible to recreate absolutely any furniture project. In features, you can set special parameters and even select the material from which it is planned to create the desired interior items. The main advantage of such services is the lack of need to study information, how to calculate the size or draw "in the old manner", especially since not every person has such skills. The finished version is printed on the printer as a photo project, and then the case of technology and practical skills.

The graphic drawing of the common project determines the success of the conceived case, but the creation of details is an equally responsible event. First of all, everyone should think about what functions should perform furniture and only after that proceed to the drawing. The correct calculation of the size is the determining factor for the success of the entire further assembly. Otherwise, the item may not stand up in its place, which means that it takes the adjustment of its shape, which implies additional financial spending. Even if the plans are facing the manufacture of an ordinary storage cabinet, each detail must appear in a separate angle in the drawing:

  1. Back wall;
  2. Front Panel;
  3. Side walls;
  4. Each shelf;
  5. Door.

As for the details that will be retractable, they are also drawn separately from the rest.

General design room

Create a general design

Apply the measurements of each element

Approach measurements

Color 3D visualization

Create color decoration

Creating details

Production of parts is made according to the general instruction:

  1. The choice of material from which parts will be formed;
  2. Creating a project on a computer using a 3D program or execution of a hand drawing on Watman;
  3. Manufacturing patterns by printing on a printer or making patterns manually;
  4. Transfer of blanks to the material by stroke with a pencil or a bright marker;
  5. Cut with a high-performance machine;
  6. Processing edge, if necessary, grinding;
  7. Drilling holes for fasteners.
Choose materials for the manufacture of cabinet furniture

We choose manufacturing materials

Project creation

We do the project

Creation of lecture

Creation of lecturers and cutout materials

Cutting DSP

We carry out the cutting chipboard

Milling and grinding chipboard

Spin coating

Drilling holes

Making holes


When moving the furniture constructing with your own hands to the assembly, the whole process can be described in the following steps:

  1. All those present elements of accessories (loops, locks, screeds, passings) are fixed to the main details;
  2. Collect the frame and the rear wall, minting mirrors;
  3. Check the accessories, fasten the handles, plugs, set the retractable elements to their locations.

Depending on which object of furniture is planned to be collected, the process can be somewhat different, but the main procedure remains unchanged. In order for each person to plan to create furniture with his own hands, he understood how he needs to act, you can disassemble the whole process on the example of creating an ordinary cabinet.

How to make furniture with your own hands

Fresh fitness

Montage Karcasa

Collect the carcass

Breeping furniture knobs

Mount the handles

Fresh plugs on furniture

Fresh plug

Stage 1. Frame

Corrected parts are connected according to the plan. To perform a screed, it is recommended to prepare a screwdriver with special bits. A twist will occur much faster than with a screwdriver. In addition, the forces will be consumed much less for such work. It is important to take care of the maximum strength of the design, so it is not recommended to use nails to strengthen the cabinet bottom. The optimal choice will be a screw of 4 to 16. Side surfaces, as well as top and bottoms are connected at right angles using furniture corners. You can kill the back wall of the cabinet to the finished carcass.

Fastening furniture frame

We collect the foundation

Dealer furniture holes

Making holes

Installation of the lower part of the furniture frame

Installing the bottom of the frame

Krepim shelves

Krepim shelves

Stage 2. Sliding System

To ensure the correct movement of sliding doors, primarily fasten the guides. They are mounted in parallel to the upper and lower plane of the cabinet. One of the optimal options will be the use of a specially designed system called "Commander". Without much effort, you can not only move the doors to the desired position, but also easy to adjust. As a rule, adjustment is needed if slots are observed during the assembly, which not only spoils the appearance, but it makes it difficult to operate. In most cases, at first after the assembly, a shrinkage of cabinet furniture occurs, as a result of which slots may also appear. This is considered normal due to the specific features of the material.

Special rollers are screwed to the doors. The finished design is installed in the guides and check the move.

Stop installation

Install the stopper

Rubberized lining

Mount the rubberized lining

We carry out the installation of the guide cabinet

Installation of guides

Adjusting the guide system

Adjusting the system

Stage 3. Installation of fittings

At this stage, all shelves, drawers are inserted into place, and other small elements are attached. The cabinet is ready. Even a person who does not have experience in creating cabinet furniture with his own hands will not spend on creating a lot of quality a large amount of time. The average assembly time is no more than three hours without the preparatory work. In addition, the cost of the product made with your own hands is much lower than the price of finished furniture in the store.

The assembly of cabinet furniture is your own hands - this is a combination of an optimal designer solution, the choice of high-quality materials, as well as the purchase of new skills, with the help of which in the future you can create entire furniture headsets.

Mount the kitchen knobs


To unstantarly equip housing, you can try to make furniture with your own hands. It is necessary to take into account that this is not the easiest activity, it will take a thorough approach. Independent manufacture of cabinet furniture can give moral satisfaction and raise the mood. The new product will perfectly serve in the house, will attract the attention of guests.

Required tools

To achieve the best result, patience and maximum attention will be needed. In this case, do not do without suitable tools. For the manufacture of cabinet furniture will be required:

  • roulette;
  • pencil;
  • screwdriver;
  • awl;
  • Drills for confirmates.

If there is a desire to make the manufacture of furniture to your business and create a small production, it is better to get:

  • electric drill;
  • electric bison;
  • mill.

Since it is necessary to work mainly with a tree, then the electric drill will not need the most productive, enough power is only 650 W. It can be quickly and without much effort to drill a lot of smooth holes in the details of future furniture. The electrolovka will help to cut various materials, and to create smooth grooves or artistic threads, the milling mill is used.


To obtain high-quality products, different types of raw materials are used, making materials need to be chosen carefully. Wood is best suited. However, one-piece arrays are expensive, so popular forest industry is popular:

  1. Chipboard. This material is the cheapest, however, the design of him is very attractive and allows you to interestingly equip housing. It should be noted that toxic substances are distinguished at strong heating, so the location of furniture from the chipboard near the battery is not the best solution.
  2. LDSP. It is a chipboard covered with a special film. Plates have a bad resistance to physical influences. Can imitate different wood species. From LDSP, kitchen headsets are often made, since the plates are high resistance to temperature drops.
  3. DVP. Plates from such a material is extremely difficult to fasten each other, so the rear walls and the bottom of the cabinets make from it. The appearance resembles an ordinary cardboard.
  4. MDF. Safe and durable raw materials for furniture. It is easily deformed, which allows you to make interesting bends. Material is durable and waterproof, so it will serve as many years in rooms with high humidity. However, in the event of a breakdown, it will not be possible to repair the furniture.

The edge of PVC provides additional protection for the product and helps to avoid injury and damage, smoothing all the irregularities.



No furniture will cost without high-quality and functional fittings - facial and fasteners. The first type includes details that serve only for decor. This is an important part of the interior that is always in sight. Facial accessories include:

  • doorknobs;
  • Hooks for clothes;
  • Decorative locks and more.

Take better products of Italian manufacturers - they are famous for quality.

Depending on the design of the room, you can choose facial accessories from plastic, wood, metal or glass. There must be a special coating, reducing friction and protecting from mechanical effects. The second-type fittings performs the fastener function, connecting the parts and increasing the reliability of the furniture. It should be compact, durable and made of high-quality materials. To this type belongs:

  • loops;
  • holders for shelves;
  • bolts;
  • mechanisms for extending drawers;
  • Sealers.

Furniture loops are used to open door flaps, but with their help you can make a mechanism for transformer designs.

Hooks for clothes
Holders for the shelves
Mechanisms for extending boxes

Preparatory process

The creation of any furniture always begins with the design of the future subject. You can do this in the traditional way, drawing a drawing on paper, or take advantage of special programs. Also, accurate calculations should also be made and select the necessary parts for the product.


Today there are many 3D programs to create furniture projects. Their main advantage is the lack of need for design skills. No need to study information on sizes and draw on paper - not every person has such skills. From all programs you can select the 5 most popular:

  • Volumetric;
  • T-FLEX furniture;
  • Sketchup;
  • Adobe Photoshop;
  • Dynalog.

Before printing a drawing for the manufacture of cabinet furniture, it should be thoroughly reworked. Otherwise, one error in the calculations can reduce efforts to not - remake nothing.

T-FLEX furniture
Adobe Photoshop.

Assembly drawings

It is advisable to create a assembly drawing that will simplify the manufacture of furniture. It includes:

  • Images of all parts that give information about their connection and location relative to other parts of the product;
  • exact dimensions;
  • notation of all-point compounds and conventional numbers of compound parts;
  • specifications.

The assembly drawing is a type of engineering document that shows the location of all parts of the product and their connection between themselves.

Calculation and detail

The technology of manufacturing furniture cabinet requires careful compliance with previous calculations. The design of the product must save rigidity. You can achieve this with the help of the posterior wall or kings, which is fixed at an angle of 90 degrees between the panels. Without these parts, the furniture will constantly catch or fail.

It is important to remember about the earthly attraction - all the elements without support that have a length of more than 90 cm will be saved. Thickness and parts width will not affect it. Also, it is also necessary to calculate partitions that do not interfere with the product to serve as purpose and will perform the function of the rigid frame.


For the successful manufacture of cabinet furniture, you need to carefully comply with all stages:

  • Preparation of parts;
  • cutting slices;
  • markup of fittings;
  • installation.

After completing the calculations and starting the assembly of the product, in no case cannot work without drawing or act at its discretion. If a new idea arose, you should create another scheme in which all the amendments will be taken into account.

Preparation of details

When working from scratch, you must first make the cutting details of the furniture - a dense paper or cardboard is suitable. Then you need a high-performance machine with a high frequency of sawing. By placing the workpiece on it, it is necessary to cut the material, if possible, saving space. So it will be possible to reduce the cost of wood.

Ready options can be found in furniture departments on the market. In this case, no machines will be required. If the raw materials are not processed, then the details first need to be covered with self-adhesive film or a special plastic.

Remove details

Treatment of slices

Before you start collecting parts, you need to puncture sections. This will require the edge tape. Before work, you must make sure that there is a low humidity in the room - it is advisable to dry well and warm up the workshop. Equipment will also need, an ordinary iron is suitable and a construction knife. Sometimes the edge originally equipped with a sticky layer, then do not additionally handle the surface.

During pasting, the iron should be kept at a short distance from the cut to prevent possible offsets and secure all the details well. If you reap, the edge can overheat and burst. When it locks, with the help of a knife you need to cut the edge and clean it all irregularities.

Enclose cuts
Cut the edge
Clean irregularities

Marking of fittings

Proper technology implies the location of the finished details of future furniture on a flat surface for marking. Following the plan, it is necessary to celebrate all the places where the fittings will be attached. It is advisable to double-check the dimensions again, since the error in 1 cm can give skews of the entire structure. Next, in the marked places you need to make holes, screw the fittings.

Place, drill holes
Screw furniture


In accordance with the plan, the cuttings must be connected. For a screed, it is important to prepare a screwdriver with special nozzles. So twisting will occur much faster than with a screwdriver. To strengthen the bottom it is impossible to use nails. The best choice will be a self-sample size of 4 to 16. All the faces must be made at an angle of 90 degrees using the corners. You can kill the rear wall to the assembled frame.

In order for sliding mechanisms to work smoothly, you need to correctly fix the guides. They should be attached parallel to horizontal ribs of the product. Then to fasten special rollers to the doors, to move which the work of the entire mechanism is checked. After installing the sliding system, the shrinkage of furniture begins, which is why the gaps may appear. This is considered a normal phenomenon and depends on the characteristics of the material.

It remains to attach accessories. All shelves, hooks and boxes need to be installed in place. The product is ready to use. Even inexperienced person can cope with the design of cabinet furniture.

The manufacture of cabinet furniture allows you to purchase useful skills that will help to create entire headsets for different premises in the future. All products in the house will have a unique design that will surprise and cause delight among guests. At the assembly of the cabinet, for example, it takes no more than 3 hours at novice masters.


Добавить комментарий