Bath with your own hands: Various ways of manufacturing

The market of sanitary equipment is filled with containers for bathing of different shapes and sizes. Unusual interiors require non-standard solutions. Then you need to create a bath according to an individual project. This is due to the size of the room, aligning furniture objects in it or the original designer idea. Plug metal, plastic or acrylic can be ordered at the manufacturing plant. Another option is to make a bath with your own hands.

The market of sanitary equipment is filled with containers for bathing of different shapes and sizes. Unusual interiors require non-standard solutions. Then you need to create a bath according to an individual project. This is due to the size of the room, aligning furniture objects in it or the original designer idea. Plug metal, plastic or acrylic can be ordered at the manufacturing plant. Another option is to make a bath with your own hands.

Bath with your own hands

Brick bath

Replace the standard bathing bowl can design of brick or foam concrete blocks. Masonry technology is based in such a way that you can create a bowl of any shape and size. The use of a shrinkage mold is not required.

Most often, the homemade container of the brick is placed in the corner between the two walls. The design allows you to make a comfortable font, which takes up little space.

The process of individual masonry consists of 4 stages:

  • Substress communication communications;
  • laying of the design itself;
  • waterproofing;
  • Exterior cladding.

Benefits of materials

The advantages of brick baths are as follows:

  • High strength and wear resistance;
  • Soundproofing properties;
  • Low moisture absorption;
  • Naturalness and environmental friendliness;
  • material density;
  • Comparative ease.

What brick is fits

Baths are made from ceramic, silicate brick or foam concrete blocks. If you comply with all technical norms, durable and reliable font will work out of any brick. The design is able to serve many decades. Specialists of the construction sphere are recommended to give preference to standard ceramics. It is a little more expensive than his opponents, but consumer properties overlap the difference in price.

Brick bath

Preparatory work

Before starting construction work, you must prepare all the tools and materials.

The list includes:

  • level;
  • putty knife;
  • Corolnic;
  • exercise;
  • trowel;
  • Mop;
  • brick;
  • cement;
  • plaster;
  • waterproofing mixture;
  • tile;
  • Grout seams for pools.

Also in advance you need to dismantle the old bath and floor to the slab overlap. Communications are rechecked and bred before the construction work began, as it will be almost impossible to correct it in the future.

Step-by-step construction instructions

In order for the design to comply with the technical standards and rules, you must adhere to step by step instructions:

  1. Install the drain for shower cabins. This will improve the convenience of subsequent plumbing service.
  2. Put the bottom and walls of the container using a standard masonry solution. When the walls are erected, the technique of "in the Polkirpich", or use blocks with a minimum thickness.
  3. Apply stucco, which will help smooth out all the irregularities, if necessary, curl corners.
  4. The next layer is applied waterproofing. For these purposes, polymer and combined finished compositions are chosen. They are stacked with a thin layer, but at the same time they have a high degree of waterproof. Also, walls and bottom can be placed with cement mortar, which includes liquid glass.
Construction of brick bath

It is not recommended to apply rolled or bitumen waterproofing, as it prevents the sturdy stacking of the facing material.

Final finish and facing

The final stage of construction is the external and interior decoration of the structure. As a facing, use a whole tile, a mosaic of ceramics or porcelain stoneware. The material is attached to the waterproof glue. After the laying is driving, proceed with epoxy seams.

If you judge the photos of finished products, then the mosaic cladding looks much more effectively. In addition, due to small sizes, the material easily places under any inclination and bend of the container.

Bathtub of concrete

Concrete construction is considered better brick, but the manufacturing process is more complicated. The lack of docking seams makes fastener and durable.

The advantages of the monolithic bath are as follows:

  • The bath is capable of withstanding high weight;
  • Over time, only decorative cladding can be deformed;
  • long service life;
  • The possibility of implementing any idea and designer idea.

Bathtub of concrete

The disadvantages of the design include:

  1. Lack of access to communications systems. All plumbing devices are covered with concrete, so when emergency situations occur, it is quite difficult to get to them.
  2. Difficulties in the manufacture of formwork. When a bowl is created according to an individual project, the design often contains bends and transitions. This causes additional difficulties when pouring concrete.
  3. The design is obtained quite heavy, so the placement of concrete baths on the upper floors is not recommended.

Cement selection and solution

The choice of materials depends on the further cladding of the container. If it is planned to leave the surface of concrete, then you need to choose a cement mixture with additional plasticizers. This composition will help make the bottom and walls smooth and durable.

In the case when acrylic or tile be superimposed on the concrete basis, a cement-sand mixture without additives can be used.

The main rule - the solution must be water repellent. Builders recommend such proportions: 1 part of cement M350 or higher to 3 parts of sand. Before kneading sand, it is necessary to sift from garbage and foreign bodies.

Communication Planning and Wiring

For the manufacture of a bath from concrete, a plastic mold is used, which helps to choose the size of the future font and correctly perform the wiring of communications.

Bathtub of concrete

The location of sanitary devices is recommended to fit with special accuracy. In the future, they will be covered with a layer of concrete, and remade something will be problematic.

Formwork and frame

The construction of the base of the container consists of 2 stages. The first creates a frame of reinforcement, the diameter of which should not be thicker 8 mm. First, vertical bars are installed in the corresponding holes in the ceiling, and then the horizontal join the wire. It is impossible to use the floor as the bottom of the bath, so it is necessary to construct fittings and for these purposes.

At the second stage, formwork is erected. Most often, the basis is taken by smooth wooden plates, which are easily disconnected from concrete and leave no traces.

Pouring concrete

Before the fill you need to make sure that there are no cracks, the frame is mounted firmly, and all drain holes are closed with corks. For the first stage, a more liquid solution is used, which corresponds to the consistency of sour cream. It will spread better on the formwork and fill all the cavities of the future capacity.

When the bottom is completely filled, you can start creating onboard. To do this, take a mixture of standard density. It is important to perform all the fill at a time. Otherwise, layers and lesions can be formed.

Pouring bathroom concrete

Now, with the help of vibration, the design must be rid of air clusters. If there is no vibrator, you can apply a simple hammer. Light tapping on the walls of the bowl will avoid the formation of voids.

At the end of the bath should be left for 4-5 days. During this time, the design will grow enough, you can go to the next step.

Removing supporting structures and grinding

At the current stage, wooden structures remove and proceed to the grout of the tank. As a tool, an emery skin or grinding device is used. If further decorative design is not required, after Occarification and grinding, the bowl is covered with a special impregnating solution for a stone that acts as waterproofing.

Decorative cladding

A ceramic tile, acrylic or mosaic is used as a decorative coating of the self-made bath.

The first option is considered the fastest and simple. The tile is placed on the waterproof glue, and the seams are wiping with a special grout for baths and pools. Apply this design is possible only for square and rectangular structures. If the font has roundness, it is better to resort to another facing option. The tile has good resistance to moisture, cosmetics and is able to withstand heavy loads. To all, it does not require much care.

The bulk acrylic protects the concrete structure from moisture and gives the surface elegant glossy shine. When using such a fill, the bowl is additionally operated by plastic and moisture-resistant putty.

The layer is applied using the reinforcing grid, which will increase the strength of the layer. Acrylic is connected to the hardener according to the instructions and apply on board and the bottom of the bath. Such facing can be used for pools and jacuzzi. The material is able to serve 20-25 years.

The most popular way of facing non-standard plumbing structures is tiled mosaic. It has high moisture resistance and thanks to the small size easily fit into rounded bending products. Mosaic, like a simple tile, glued on a waterproof solution, and the seams are processed with epoxy grout. The only disadvantage is the laboriousness of the process.

Using polystyrene foam

Another material that allows you to make a bath with your own hands is polystyrene. It is used to create a frame. Due to the lightness and comparative softness of the foam, you can create a capacity of any form.

The manufacturer's instructions are similar to that applied during brickwork.

However, there are some nuances of the process:

  1. The sheet of polystyrene is cut into parts of the desired shape and size.
  2. Using the mounting glue, pieces are connected together and form the shape of the bowl.
  3. Reinforced mesh and several layers of waterproof glue are applied to the finished frame. This will help strengthen the product and protect it from leaks.
  4. The next step, the surface is ground and treated with waterproofing solution.
  5. Ceramic mosaic is fastened with adhesive composition, and the seams are maintained by the pool tool.

In the finished room you can make a ceiling of plasterboard. It will give the bathroom finished view. But such an idea is not obligatory for execution.

Probably, each of us at least once in life saw a bath, but did someone thought about how to make it with his own hands. Of course, every amateur to do something with his own hands at least once asked by this question, and if you are one of them, then you are lucky, because this article will talk about how to make a bath.

What will required for work?

To learn how to make a bath in the bathroom, you must first prepare all the devices and materials that will be needed during the work.

So, we will need:

  • Level
  • Extending
  • Galnik
  • Trowel
  • Putty knife

Remember! When installing the bottom of the bathroom it is very important to remember that the slope must be in the side of the cream hole, otherwise everything will end not very good. Water just will stay in the bathroom and stammer!

We start work

Let's finally find out how to make a bath. So, the following will be given a sequence of actions that are recommended to perform with extreme accuracy, because even the most seemingly minor flaws are able to ruin the whole design and to start the cat under the tail all your work and all the time.

Also, if you are interested in the question of how to make a bathroom repair, then think about it and better make repairs simultaneously with the installation of a new bath.

Let's proceed:

First of all, you need to remove the old design and the flooring to the base. Of course, if we are talking about a new room, you can automatically skip this item.

The dismantling work is quite complicated and time-consuming, especially if earlier there was a heavy iron construction before the future bathroom. If you have the opportunity, it is better to call someone to help.

Next, you need to mount all possible communication and sewage systems. This will greatly facilitate draining maintenance. Install the bathroom ladder to use it instead of traditional strapping.

Remove the measurements of the room in which the bath will stand. Remember, only with a thorough measure you can completely eliminate the possibility of a choice error. Agree, it is not very nice to mess around with the exchange of old design to the new one.

Next you need to build the baths. Usually, instead of bricks use aerated concrete blocks.

The brick that you use during the work should be soaked for 24 hours in ordinary water so that it does not absorb excess water from the harvested solution.

Installing seams. They are recommended to do not very thin, but not too thick. The best solution will be from eight to twelve millimeters. So you can create additional strengthening of your walls.

Excessive solution or seams that appear, it is better to remove instantly, as much as possible and extremely neat. This will allow the finish material to lie down as smoothly as possible. Leave the finished design for several days so that it can dry.

Place the waterproofing layer to prevent water flow. In the role of waterproofing material, rubberoid or a regular sheet of metal can be.

Already after the final laying, you can proceed to the last step - the bathroom cladding. It is possible to make production absolutely differently.

You can contact the Internet for the ideas of design or rely on only your fantasy. Never be afraid to invent something your own, because it is that all the most original structures are obtained.

After having drawn over all of the foregoing, we can say that you learned how to make a bath yourself. It becomes clear that the process is quite complex and time-consuming, but with the help of a comrade and proper desire, the process occurs quite quickly.

Output

If you seriously think about the manufacture of in the bathroom, but at the same time you think about the full repair of the bathroom, it is better to do everything at the same time. Look on the Internet, how to make a ceiling in the bathroom, or set one or another item.

Try to carefully familiarize yourself with the whole above information, and in the manufacture of the most precisely follow the steps of the instructions.

Moreover, decide in advance what kind of design suits you most and analyze all its advantages and disadvantages. We wish you good luck and success in the construction of the design!

Photo bath

Finally, you decided to make the bathroom repair with your own hands and do not know where to start? We will tell in which sequence it is necessary to repair the bathroom, and most importantly how to fulfill all the work in stages. What options for putting plumbing and ideas can be applied during repairs. Select the appropriate option for you and adhere to the recommendations of this article.

Step-by-step repair in the bathroom

Usually, the repair is done because of the purchase of a new apartment, the replenishment in the family or simply came the turn to replace all pipes and equipment in the bathroom. Even before the start of repair, you must decide on a number of works, whether to do them in your case or not, and plan all the locations of plumbing and equipment in the bathroom.

Bathroom repair planning
Plan the location of the devices in advance

The correct sequence of bathroom repair is composed with the participation of a bathroom repair specialist, who has many years of experience in this matter. It will save you from tightening the repair time with your own hands and excess costs for materials.

Bathroom redevelopment

You decided to make a redevelopment of the bathroom and combine the bath and toilet, or increase the bathroom space at the expense of the corridor. We want to warn you in advance that the transfer of interroom partitions or doorways is considered redevelopment, and in the case of the sale of an apartment, you will need to redo the plan in BTI and related documents. It is advisable to agree in advance if you do not want problems with documents.

Bathroom redevelopment
In a separate bathroom it is difficult to fit all the devices

If you make redevelopment for yourself, and not for sale - then there will be no problems. You choose the alignment of plumbing, which will be most conveniently based on the size of the bathroom and make up for yourself a plan from hand with the location of all devices in the bathroom. On the Internet, it is full of options that you can use or invite local professionals - who will prompt you the correct placement of furniture based on the technical capabilities of the water supply and sewage laying on the bathroom.

Listen to the tips of the masters so that it does not work out - that you decide to install a shower cabin in the other end of the bathroom and start, during the repair process, pull through the entire room sewage, which in the other end of the bath will be higher than the level of drain of the cabin pallet.

Tip:
Combined bathroom
Combined bath and toilet after redevelopment

You can take ready-made solutions based on one or more options, and align them, make your own option providing all the features of the bathroom planning.

Dismantling of old plumbing and decoration

Start off the walls, remove everything too much - hide, cabinets, mirrors and all glass items. Discharge the water crane on the riser and disconnect all Santeh. Instruments in the bathroom from water supply and sewage.

Dismantling tiles perforator
The presence of a perforator speeds up the repair of the bathroom

In the presence of one perforator, the hammer and chisel disassembly takes not so much time, the main thing is not to rearrange. After all, dismantling the plaster or tile, you can damage the old pipe and pour neighbors from the bottom. The same applies to dismantling the heated towel rail and water pipes in the bathroom - you need to be extremely attentive.

After dismantling plumbing devices, old ceramic tiles, sewage and water pipes, proceed to the demolition of partitions.

Dismantling partition in the bathroom
Demolition of the inner partition between the bathroom and the toilet

After dismantling the inner partition, between the toilet and the bathroom, you can enlarge the area of ​​the bathroom.

Tip:

If you have a big bathroom, but small kitchen - you can shift the partition toward the bathroom and enlarge the kitchen at the expense of the bathroom.

Dismantling pig-iron bath
Give out the old cast-iron bath with scrapbooks

And do not listen to the advice on the old cast-iron bath - it is not necessary to cut it in half the grinder to bring out of the bathroom. It is enough to raise it standing, climb on the wall and dismantling the cast-iron legs to make an old bath through the doorway - standing.

Invite local scrapbooks of scrap metal, probably the janitor knows where to find them, and they themselves will bring a heavy cast-iron bath for free - also thanks to say.

Tip:

Construction of new walls of the bathroom

It is possible to build new walls from different materials. It may be brick, drywall structures, foam block, aerated concrete or any other material available in your city for partitions.

Masonry floor block in the bathroom
Partition in the bathroom from gas block 600x250х100

The most reliable is the partition from the gas block - this is a foamed artificial stone with evenly distributed over the entire volume with a diameter of 1-3 mm.

Tip:

The thickness of the partitions for the bathrooms should be at least 8 cm without taking into account the finish finish and plaster. This is due to the fact that the plumbing pipes need to be made by 3 - 4 centimeters deep into the wall, for hidden gaskets.

Alignment of walls and floor

Typically, the walls in the bathroom are aligned with plaster. What kind of plaster - cement or on a plaster basis to solve you. Just do not confuse the gypsum plaster with a gypsum replacement - these are different mixtures. And do not believe the prejudices that the plaster plaster is not suitable for wet rooms.

Alignment of walls in the bathroom
Alignment of walls with plaster plaster mixtures

We recommend using gypsum plaster mixes - it is easier to work with novice masters with them, the mixture does not swim and does not give a shrinkage.

Tip:

Install plaster beacons by level, immediately on all the walls. Wait for the next day and proceed to align the walls, throwing the plaster from the bottom up, pulling the surplus by plastering rule. If you doubt your abilities, find video lessons to apply plaster on the walls.

Installation of plaster beacons
Floor screed by lighthouses

When the walls are ready, proceed to align the floor with a cement screed, according to the same principle. To do this, there are ready-made cement mixtures in bags.

Waterproofing floor in the bathroom
Waterproofing floor roller in the bathroom

The bathroom waterproofing in the bathroom can be performed in several ways. With the help of special films that are laid before filling the screed or using special waterproof mixtures, which are sold in bags and are applied in two layers before laying ceramic tiles.

Wiring of pipes and sewage pipes

The next stage of the bathroom repair begins with the installation of a new water supply system and sewer pipes. Start with replacing the rising water supply and sewage riser in the apartment.

When replacing risers, it is not recommended to save on the quality of materials. If there is an opportunity - it is better to negotiate with the neighbors and replace the risers not only in the apartment, but also in the ceiling between the floors of the neighbors.

Tip:
Replace risers in the bathroom and toilet

For risers, we recommend using only polypropylene pipes of good quality. Over time, a cheap polypropylene tube is Dubet and loses its properties, which leads to a breakout of water supply in the apartment.

There are many opinions that it is better: soldering from polypropylene pipes or a metal-plastic system wiring in the apartment. We will conduct a technical comparison of two water pipe systems.

Metal plastic pipes

Wiring with metal-plastic pipes
Metal-plastic pipes are connected by fitting

The metalplastic pipe consists of three layers, the inner layer is polyethylene, the middle layer - aluminum, the outer layer is protective polyethylene. All three layers are interconnected by a special glue, which does not allow to settle in the process of creating a fifteen form of pipes and further operation.

Advantages:
  • High operating temperatures 95-110 оC, pressure from 10 atm. up to 16 atm.;
  • Under all the rules of installation of the material will last up to 50 years;
  • The inner layer of the pipe retains its smoothness regardless of temperature, which prevents clogging of pipes;
  • Big thermal conductivity - a good heating rate;
  • lightness and plasticity, the ability to give any forms of bending without special equipment;
  • Seamless installation of pipe mounting allows you to reduce the number of joints.
Disadvantages:
  • high cost of the pipe itself and connecting fittings in comparison with cheap analogues;
  • Not resistant to mechanical damage and loads;
  • Consistent temperature drops weaken joint joints.

Polypropylene pipes

Wiring by polypropylene pipes
Polypropylene pipes solder soldering iron

The polypropylene tube has always competed with metal-plastic pipes when installing water supply systems in the apartment. Their characteristics are largely coincided with metal-plastic pipes, since all these materials consist of plastic, but the difference in the technical indicators of the pipes and the method of their installation makes thinking when choosing - which pipes are better: polypropylene or metal-plastic?

Advantages:
  • high resistance to mechanical damage to the pipe;
  • The structure of the pipe does not have the properties of the bundle, the reinforcing layer is between the layers of polypropylene and does not affect the integrity of the pipe;
  • The expansion of the pipe under the influence of hot or cold water does not lead to the destruction of the structure;
  • Temperature 75-95 оC, pressure from 7 atm. up to 14 atm.;
  • a weak thermal conductivity of the pipe - retains the water temperature in the system;
  • service life not more than 25 years;
  • The reinforced water conduit can be safely mounted under the tile;
  • The cost of connecting parts and pipes is small.
Disadvantages:
  • Under conditions of aggressively high temperatures and pressure in the pipes, the service life is reduced to 3 years;
  • Pipes are afraid of direct impact of ultraviolet radiation and outdoor air;
  • Over 110. оC, plastic loses its properties and is completely not applicable in regions with a harsh cold climate;
  • Installation of the water supply requires additional time, special skills and special soldering iron for pipes.

We recommend using a collector water supply system using metal-plastic pipes. This version of pipe wiring in the bathroom is considered to be the most effective compared to other ways.

The choice remains yours!
Collective wiring of water pipes
Collective water supply system in the apartment

The collector system of installation of water pipes increases the pressure in the apartment highway, in contrast to the sequential layout system by polypropylene tubes, where each water supply point is divorced by one pipe.

Drilling pipe water and sewage
Drinking pipes of sewage and water supply in a brick wall

If you are not going to draw water pipes into the wall for some reason, then for mounting the water pipe in the bathroom, use polypropylene tubes. They are more resistant to mechanical damage compared to metal-plastic pipes.

Installation of sewage in the bathroom

The sanitation in the bathroom is mounted from plastic pipes with a diameter of 50 mm. Thanks to special compounds with seals, you can easily mounted the sewage system with your own hands, it will take a little of your time.

By mounting the sewer system in the bathroom, do not forget about the need to respect the angle of inclination of 1.5 ° - 3 ° in the direction of the total sewer riser. This is important if you do not want to clean a new sewer sewer every year.

Sliding Sliding Bathroom
Sewerage in the bathroom with the right angle of inclination

To drain washing or dishwashers, you can use sewer pipe with a diameter of no more than 40 mm.

Note:

Having completed plumbing work on the wiring of new water supply and sewer pipes, we turn to the next repairs of the bathroom.

Installation of wiring in the bathroom

Before laying the tile, you need to dissolve a new wiring for the highlighting of the mirror, the electric fan and the washing machine - if it is provided for it in the bathroom.

Socket in the bathroom
Bathroom socket and wet rooms

The exhaust fan in the bathroom can be connected to a separate switch key or power from lighting in the bathroom. So that the fan is turned on together with the overall lighting in the bathroom with one key.

Wiring in the bathroom
Correct location of sockets in the bathroom

Additional points of outlets Place at a convenient height for you, in places of unlikely hitting water drops into the outlet. For wet premises and bathrooms, it is recommended to install protection and a separate automatic on the boiler and a washing machine at the entrance.

Installation of Santechshkafa in the bathroom

Plumbing cabinet is a metal-resistant plasterboard design, which hides the risers of the sewage and water supply in the bathroom. To access ribers and water meters, it is necessary to provide a revision window or sanitary hatch. Since in the future it may be necessary for their further replacement or service.

Santechshkaf from plasterboard
Sanitary cabinet made of plasterboard

Do not cross the passing of heating or water pipes tightly, and do not turn around steel and cast iron pipes with merilon. This leads to a fogging of pipes inside the insulation, in a wet room, risers must "breathe".

Tip:

Laying of ceramic tile

If you have finished all the preparatory work in the bathroom, then you should start laying the tile from the floor.

Ceramic tile for the bathroom take with a small margin. When laying, an accidental marriage of production or a battle of tiles during transportation is not excluded. By purchasing a large number of packs, be sure to check the part number of each package and the date of production.

Laying tiles on the floor
Laying ceramic tiles on the floor

Each batch of ceramic tile is different with each other with a color shade and tile sizes.

Note:

Start the laying of the tile is better from the long corner of the bath, after making the layout of the tile layout on the floor. One-piece tiles should be on open areas of walls, which will not be forced to be furnished, and lay down to the walls behind which will not be visible.

Tiled glue, which, as you like, after which the excess is removed using a toothed spatula. Place one, maximum two tiles for races, after which they must be adjusted and check using the level. If necessary, you can slightly sweep with your hand or rubber xy.

Laying tile on the walls
Laying tiles in the bathroom on the walls

Having finished laying the floor by ceramic tiles, the next day, you can go to the walls.

It is worth noting that with horizontal placement of the tile, a visual increase in the area of ​​the room is created, and with vertical laying - a visual increase in height.

Note:

If the bathroom plans to install a shower or hydrobox - to start laying the first row of tiles from the floor, throughout the perimeter of the walls.

Installation of acrylic bath
Bath is installed before laying tiles on the wall

There will be an acrylic or cast-iron bath - then the first thing you install the bath on the legs and seal the sealant of the joint between the wall and the bathroom, and only then go to the laying of ceramic tiles on the wall. It is necessary to start a whole tile from the top edge of the bath, laying out the first row throughout the perimeter of the room - we go away from it to the floor with trimming, and then proceed to laying towards the ceiling.

Holes in the ceramic tiles are cut with tungsten crowns, or manually with a pen for brakes and tiles - this process is very time consuming and requires a certain skill.

Shutdown seams tile
Pull the seams in the bathroom moisture-proof grout

After laying, the tile seams are wiping with water-repellent grout. This is done by a rubber spatula, you need to fill all the empties between the tiles so that the water does not penetrate the tile.

Grout acquires its claimed color after complete drying, after 1-2 days, depending on the air temperature in the room.

Note:

Tile shower pallet

Just make a pallet from the tile and just hang the curtain will not work - more precisely, this is a country option, because on the floor there will be drops of water due to the low side of the pallet made by their own hands.

Shower pallet with a new
Shower pallet with a new

So that the cabin with the pallet from the tile was practical and served a long time, you need to buy a shower cabin without a pallet. And only after the purchase, lay the pallet from the brick or a gas block in size to the size of the shower cabin system.

Shower cabin with pallet from tile
Shower cabin with pallet from tile

Make a pallet with your own hands and buy the finished acrylic pallet is almost the same in price. Pallets from tiles are not serviced, it will not be possible to replace the siphon, and the siphons need to be changed every five years or make prevention from blockages.

Shower pallet with their own hands

The main thing is just not to use all sorts of "crumbs", "will break" and other chemistry, there is a chance to score the sewer pipe even faster. To avoid all this, it is enough to make a good sinking of sewage, not less than 3 °.

There are ready-made acrylic pallets with a removable screen that are serviced without disassembling the entire cab. Buying very low pallets, without a removable screen, do not recommend - to replace or maintain a siphon, you will have to disassemble the entire cab.

Low pallet shower
Low pallet shower

When choosing a tile for the pallet, it is better to choose a mosaic or a matte tile with an anti-slip coating so as not to slide on the wet surface. It is worth noting that the pallets from the tiles will always be cold for the legs, in contrast to acrylic pallets.

Bathroom repair ideas
Radius screen acrylic bath from mosaic

Think twice before making a decision - to make a pallet with your own hands or buy ready.

Tip:

Installation of suspended ceiling

For ceilings of bathrooms and bathrooms I use suspension systems that are not afraid of wet rooms. Most often apply plastic PVC panels, stretch and aluminum rush ceilings.

It is not recommended to sow plastic wall panels in the bathroom. They pass moisture and lose their appearance after a few years of operation of the bathroom.

Tip:
Stretch ceiling in the bathroom
Stretch ceiling in the bathroom

The most expensive is considered a stretch ceiling, it is quickly mounted but requires special equipment.

The plastic ceiling of PVC panels does not require a special tool, sufficient perforator with a screwdriver and a stationery knife.

Ceiling Ceiling in the bathroom
Aluminum Ceiling Ceiling Bathroom

The rail aluminum ceiling is considered the most expensive of all presented, is mounted on the same principle as the plastic panels. The difference only in the design of the rush panels fastening system.

Installation of plumbing and doors

When the ceiling in the bathroom is ready, it remains only to install plumbing in the bathroom to its place. Connect the sink, toilet, washing machine, install mixers and heated towel rail. Be sure to check all the joints and connections on the subjects.

Interroom door in the bathroom
Interroom door with a chalk board and platbands

The final stage of the repairs of the bathroom with their own hands is the installation of a new interior door with an inserting door handle, a good boards and platbands on both sides.

And what problems did you come across when repairing the bathroom? Share in the comments

ADD A COMMENT

Bathroom repair ideas

The most rational solution for the small bathroom will be combined with a bathroom with a bathroom. Sometimes you can expand the area of ​​the bathroom at the expense of the corridor or kitchen.

The absence of a partition between separate bathroom allows you to easily place the washing machine in the bathroom, additional pencils or plumbing equipment.

Expansion of a small bathroom at the corridor

The angular sink or the toilet will allow you to save the area of ​​the room and place extra furniture. Not only foals are suitable, but also hinged open shelves. The corner of the Waterman and the hygienic shower in the toilet is an excellent solution for separate bathrooms.

Another idea for small bathrooms is the placement of the washing machine "Baby" under the washbasin. In this case, the washing machine should be with horizontal loading of linen.

Suspended toilet with installation or suspended furniture with sink create a feeling of modern style and lightness - the cost of cleaning the bath is less than with furniture standing on the floor.

The angular acrylic bath or shower cabin saves the space of a combined bathroom - this solution is designed for very small rooms and allow you to take shower both adults and kids.

Little Bathroom Repair Ideas

Little bathrooms can be no less comfortable and functional than spacious bathrooms in multi-room apartments. The main thing, regardless of the size of the bathroom, so that it possesses with all the necessary set to satisfy your needs.

You can view more photos of the prepared ideas for the repair of the bathroom and toilet on our website, in the Repair Photo section.

Little Bathroom and Toilet Repair Option

We will tell you in stages. One of the options for repairing a separate bathroom in a two-room apartment, our lap sanuses.

Plan of the bathroom
Planning bathroom to repair

The repair of the bathroom and the toilet in the apartment did not make more than 15 years, since the time of delivery of the house by the developer, which cannot be noticed in the photos taken before the start of repair. The customer decided to make a redevelopment of the bathroom with an increase in the space of the bathroom at the expense of the corridor.

Bathroom to repair

We want to warn that the transfer of interroom partitions or doorways is considered to be redeveloped, for which it is desirable to agree in advance all the documents so that in the case of the sale of the apartment you did not have problems.

Toilet to repair
Toilet to repair

1 Stage: Preparation

When redeveloping a bathroom - dismantling work is considered to be the most dusty stage of repair, which requires about one week of your patience.

New bathroom plan
Planning a new bathroom

Before the start of dismantling work, at the request of the customer, a plan of a future bathroom and a list of necessary materials was compiled. It was decided to dismantle the partition separating the toilet with the bathroom and transfer the heated towel rail, placed on the partition from the side of the bath, on the right wall of the combined bathroom.

To transfer the towel, it was necessary to replace the riser of hot water, digesting the outputs to the heated towel rail to the right side. To replace the heating riser, it is recommended to use galvanized steel, or plastic polypropylene tubes with aluminum or fiberglass.

Digest bypass of the towel rail and install a comb

After dismantling plumbing devices, old ceramic tiles, sewage and water pipes, we have begun redeveloping the bathroom. After dismantling the inner partition, to increase the area of ​​the bathroom, the front wall of the sanitary shop was dismantled along with the doors.

In every plumbing, throughout the perimeter, there are concrete reinforced plinths. Some wizards, in the process of repair, are brought to dismantle them - it is not correct. The plinth must be cut off with a grinder, as they will interfere with the process of laying tiles.

Demolish old partitions

The new front wall was lined with 15 cm further from the gypsum partition blocks, the size of 80x500x600. Now zooming, so, the width of the bathroom we can deploy the bath on the left side. Since the bathroom is now combined, we will not need the second door, so we posted a new doorway of the door in the middle.

Laying partition in the bathroom
New partition between the corridor and the bathroom

Stage 2: Wall Alignment and Paul

After dismantling work, on the walls in the bathroom, there is a lot of dust. Therefore, before plastering walls, they must be projected. When the primer can dry by plastering.

To align the walls, plaster beacons are installed in terms of the level, we use the beacons with a thickness of 6 mm. When plastering walls, we use a gypsum plaster mixture "Rotband". This is a modern material for aligning any types of surfaces.

Alignment of walls Gypsum plaster

Save on the plaster in the bathroom is not worth it, because it will depend on the further quality of the work. When the walls of the walls are completed, we proceed to the floor alignment. On the floor, as well as on the walls, beacons are installed. After that, the first layer of the screed is poured.

When the floor screed will dry, it is necessary to make a bathroom waterproofing. To do this, in the building materials market there are a large number of waterproof mixtures. According to the technology, waterproofing must be applied in two layers. After drying the latter, it is necessary to pour another layer of the bulk screed. This will protect your neighbors from the likely floods, and you are from extra costs.

Screed in the bathroom
Pouring news screed by lighthouses

At the end of plastering work, it remains only to place future water supply points and cut out the strides for drowning water and sewer pipes in the wall.

3 Stage: water supply and sewage

The next stage of the bathroom repair begins with the installation of a new water supply system and sewer pipes. We recommend using a collector connection scheme using metal-plastic pipes. This version of water supply is considered to be the most effective compared to the traditional way.

Painted rising water pipes
New wiring of the water supply in the apartment through the comb

The collector pipe connection increases the pressure in the apartment highway, in contrast to the sequential layout by polypropylene pipes, where each water supply point is divorced by one pipe.

Turning the grinder for drowning sewer and metal-plastic pipes in the wall, we set the collector with a diameter of 3/4 in a plumbing cabinet and weighing metal-plastic pipes water supply in parallel to each other. That is, each point of cold or hot water is laid a separate pipe, directly from the collector to the sanitary pribor.

When installing water, it is desirable to use high-quality materials, it improves the service life of the apartment highway. The use of Chinese, not collapsible fittings is not recommended, since their quality leaves much to be desired.

Drowning pipes of sewage and water

Do not save on quality. The same applies to ball valves that are installed on the introduction of cold or hot water in the apartment.

By mounting the sewer system in the bathroom, do not forget about the need to observe the angle of inclination towards the general sewer riser. This is important if you do not want to clean a new sewer sewer every year.

Utopiv all pipes in the wall, in front of the magazine with a solution, it is necessary to check the apartment highway, filling it with water under pressure to detect the lifters.

Replacing risers

Almost all apartments, the old toilet bowls in the cast iron knee, which comes out of the tee of the sewer riser. This knee must be pulled out of the riser without damaging the cast-iron tee. Most often, the jokes of cast-iron sewage scored sulfur, so you have to work well, before the cast-iron knee is pulled out.

After completing the wiring of the new sewerage and water supply, we begin the wiring of the new wiring. The bathroom will have a washing machine, it is necessary to lay a separate cable with a grounding, connecting it to a separate protection machine.

Bathroom socket
New email Washing Point

At the request of the Customer, we brought order in the electrical protection and replaced all Soviet automatic protection for new ones.

Next proceed to the installation of the new Santechshkafa. Before installing it, in obligatory, you need to paint the steel pipes of water supply and sewer riser of anti-corrosion paint.

Collect the new Santekhshkaf from drywall

Plumbing cabinet is mounted from moisture-resistant drywall. For access and maintenance of the risers, we leave the 90x40 -40 revision window. Since there is free space in Santechshku, we installed an angular shelf in it.

Hypzart shelf in the bathroom
Shelf in the bathroom of drywall

Due to the fact that furniture in the bathroom will not be, it was decided to mount along the entire length of the front wall, a small shelf of plasterboard.

4 Stage: Laying Tile

Having finished the plumbing work on the wiring of new water supply and sewer pipes, we turn to the next stage of repair - laying of ceramic tiles in the bathroom.

Install a cast-iron bath 170 cm

The first thing the tile is placed on the floor, and then on the walls. When the tile on the floor is posted, you can install the bath to support and connect to sewage.

Before redevelopment, the length of the old bath was 150 cm, moving the bath in the left side of the room and increasing the room, we set a new cast-iron bath with a length of 170 cm.

We put ceramic tiles on the walls

By installing the cast-iron bath in the level, the joints between the wall and the bathroom are sealed with moisture-resistant silicone. Siphon is installed under the bath, we use the semi-automatic drain-overflow "Viega". After checking all the siphon connections, we mount the screen under the bath from the plaster blocks. After that, we look with a tile, leaving a middle window to access the siphon.

Select the shelf and some elements of the room mosaic

Setting the tile on the walls and the floor, go to laying a mosaic. The mosaic was used as a decoration of the bathroom, we laid her shelf from plasterboard and highlighted zones between the toilet and the bathroom.

Mosaic in the toilet
We select the color of the grouts for each tile separately

After the completion of tile works, ceramic tiles must be lost to the water-repellent grout.

Having completed tile work, we proceed to the last stage of the bathroom repair - installation of plumbing devices and fittings.

Stage 5: Installing a new plumbing

A fan with a check valve is installed in the ventilation channel, which does not let the smells into the room. We brought it on a separate switch, at the request of customers.

The rectangular toilet form is set to its former place. After that, we started installing the sink, since an open type sink was chromed siphon. Mixers are installed on the sink and bath.

Install the heated towel rail and toilet

A wooden enthusiastic door is installed on Santechshkaf, which was pre-painted acrylic paint under the color of the door. On the right side of Santechshkaf, we installed a water heated towel rail.

  • Bathroom decor
  • Mosaic shelf in the bathroom
  • Beautiful bathroom
    Modern bathroom design
Mirror in the bathroom on the whole wall

Over a plasterboard shelf, a mosaic, a mirror was installed on the entire wall, this visually increases the room. A washing machine is installed between the sink and a plumbing cabinet.

The stretch ceiling for the bathroom was mounted by our repair partners, its color is light blue. Stretch ceilings are very practical when used in wet rooms and do not require special care.

  • Stretch ceiling in the bathroom
  • Chrome-plated siphon
  • Bathroom after repair
    Bathroom after repair
Exclusive Bathroom Repair Option

On the last day, it remains only to suspend accessories, set the interroom door to the bathroom, embed the locks and door handles.

The duration of the repairs of the bathroom with redevelopment was about one month, taking into account all the preparatory work.

We make a bath for yourself

The older generation remembers perfectly, it was difficult to get a new bath. I had to call acquaintances, come somewhere, pay money, then think about how to organize delivery and lifting to the floor. The baths were all standard shape, colors and sizes.

Now, in the era of diversity, I want to create something unique, special. Why not make a bath at home with your own hands? So that she harmoniously fits into the design of the rest of the rooms in the house or apartment. How difficult is the process, what options exist? It is worth considering more.

Options

Their many and people are limited only by their fantasy and financial opportunities. You can arrange a classic rectangular bath or romantic round. And it is possible - a medieval huge font, covered with bricks.

Examples:

  1. Polyethylene bath - a budget option. For this, the capacity of the required dimensions is taken, from wood or plastic, and from the inside will be rested with polyethylene. This method is more disposable, it is more convenient to use it for giving. Improve the "design" is easy - to pull out the pit and remove it with a material that does not let water. "Lazy" pool is ready. Polyethylene bath
  2. Brick bath - Selecting the pallet, put it with the material. Knowledge of the required parameters for the construction of the bath will help calculate the height and shape of the walls. Previously need to think about the place of the drain. Make a small hole in the corner of the pallet, bring the corrugated pipe there, the edge of which is connected to its sewer system. Outside, decorate a bath with tiled or other decor. It is important to use a moisture resistant solution for masonry. Brick bath
  3. Concrete bath - Create a metal formwork module. It will be required for a bath of concrete with your own hands. The frame is poured with a ready-made solution of concrete. How dry, you need to bore it from the inside with a moisture-proof material. The bath will resemble a mini pool, especially if you decorate it with tiles.

Concrete bath

Dimensions of the font should be determined in advance as the flow system and water supply.

Waterproofing

Need to protect the bottom and walls font from the exposure of moisture. For this, the surface of the walls and the bottom of the bath is treated with moisture-resistant cement-sandy mixture.

Note the place in advance and install pipes for the supply. So that the fluid itself is dried through the drain hole, you need to install it under a slight bias.

Waterproofing of a brick support or concrete wall is performed using such materials:

  1. Outflowing regularoid or membrane waterproofing - the simplest methods of protecting the bottom of the container from possible leaks. The material first cuts into the strips, then it is stacked tightly, going from above on flights.
  2. Refractory - a mastic based on bitumen or synthetic rubber is used. It is processed by the bottom of the bath, the thick, monolithic layer is applied. The disadvantage - long dries.
  3. Painting - you need to apply 4-5 layers of moisture resistant bitumen and / or polymer emulsion. Suitable any. The disadvantage - not long keeps.

Practical recommendations

Experienced people advise to apply over the waterproofing of a layer of some falling material with thermal insulation properties. It will keep the temperature of the type of water inside the bath. After that make the fill of the screed.

When the brick bath pays off:

  • If a spacious room is allocated in the house, then instead of a regular bath you can create a mini pool;
  • I want to create an unusual bathroom;
  • In terms of combining the toilet and bathroom.

To build a bath with their own hands, step-by-step guide will need, especially if the material is brick.

The most complex stages of the master consider the creation of a layout and framework. First, from the cardboard you need to create a detailed large sketch (layout), with natural sizes.

Facing the inner bathroom bowl is performed from thin smooth steel sheets. They can specify any desired size and shape. The finished frame is mounted inside, the bathroom. Metal capacity weighs decent, so the material for creating a leg of the bathroom should choose reliable.

After installation, the font is treated with waterproofing composition.

Waterproofing

An important step is to check the integrity of the design. For which the bottom is pouring to the top of the water. The bath is filled with 2-3 days. Then, if after inspection of the floor under it, wet spots is not detected, you can begin decoration.

The installation process is mainly standard - the choice of material, measurement, assembly, waterproofing, decoration. Only the complexity of work, the cost and its duration differs.

Decoration

The design is ready, but will she fit into the surrounding interior? To do this, it is necessary, even at the material selection stage, to imagine how the bathroom will look like, so that each element harmoniously looked part of the whole.

Facing material must comply with 4 requirements:

  • moisture resistance;
  • impact resistance;
  • durability;
  • Aesthetic look.

As a rule, the facing material covers the entire inner part of the bowls and sides.

Finishing options:

  1. Laying mosaic - Great option. She is small, moisture-proof and durable. There are many colors. You can safely fold the baths of any form. However, it is better to invite masters for finishing, this is a time consuming occupation. Laying mosaic
  2. Ceramic tile - If the bath has a form - square or rectangular, then the finish with the help of the tile will become the perfect solution. Ceramic tile
  3. Liquid acrylic - The bath is simply poured from the inside with a liquid acrylic. It will give the necessary smoothness, shine and rich color. Dry time - 3-5 days.

Liquid acrylic

Some masters recommend the combined option. For example, part of the bath to bond with a mosaic, and part - pour acrylic. Especially, only he brings the brick or concrete bath as possible, giving it smoothness and smooth form. Swimming will be much more comfortable.

Screen options

The screen is a protective wall that helps cover legs and a bath. You are "hiding" sewer pipes, supports and other communication systems. The screen can also be made independently. Before choosing a material, you need to measure the space and estimate the screen shape.

It is better to determine in advance, there will be a screen monolithic (stationary) or sliding. The second option is more convenient if under the bathroom it is planned to create a place for storing various things.

The material can be chosen any, the main thing is that the finished screen harmoniously fit into the overall design of the room and was:

  • moisture-resistant;
  • resistant to possible temperature shifts;
  • detergent;
  • Easy replaced.

Most often put sliding plastic screens, making them under the color of the walls or floor.

Wooden screen looks gorgeous, however, the tree will need to be protected by treating a special moisture resistant. It looks beautiful if there are other wooden parts in the room. For example, lockers, shelves or racks.

Plasterboard also looks beautiful, but here you need to install the profile bases, then hold the finished design. The advantages of the material is the ability to create any curly element.

The most convenient version of the screen is removed sliding from the lung, washing material. It is easy to clean and replace, if you break or lose color.

Additional moments

Can be equipped in a bathroom shower? Of course, it is enough to put a special common mixer and hang a curtain. The latter will come in handy if the bathroom is common. In addition, the curtain protects the floor from fluid ingress.

I want to create a big, beautiful font, where then you can spend the clock relaxing in hot foamy water. The task is quite performed even in the conditions of the city apartment. The main thing is to present in advance how the room will look like, measure the place of the future bath location. And select materials.

Shower in the bathroom

The rationally located and trouble-free acting plumbing in the bathroom is an important component of the comfort of the hosts. Her impeccable connection is a guarantee of good relationships with neighbors from the apartment below. To achieve the ideal, a professional installation is needed, with the price for which not everyone agrees.

But it is possible to significantly reduce the cost of replacing the old plumbing. If the bath is installed with your own hands, then the home master is to be paid only for consumables. However, an excellent result can only be achieved if the technological rules are met with which we are willing to share with you.

We offer to familiarize yourself with the detailed description of the installation process and plumbing, made of cast iron, acrylic, steel. Those thoroughly set off the nuances of connecting to sewage. We submitted information complement photo selection, diagrams, video.

Suitable Bath Selection Landmarks

The modern industry offers us a bathtub of different shapes and colors made from various materials. Due to the variety of models, the problem of choice always stands in front of the owner of the housing.

If the form of the capacity and its colors worry us more from an aesthetic point of view, the important operational characteristics of the product depend on the material of the manufacture: its practicality, appearance and durability.

Choosing a bath for installation with your own hands

In addition to the material, dimensions and configuration of the bowl, the choice of baths are influenced by the size of the hygiene room, convenient for all family height family, the presence of additional devices and functions

In the production of bathrooms are used:

  • Steel. Steel plumbing attracts an affordable price, an abundant assortment. Thanks to the installation with the installation, you can cope without attracting assistants. The minuses include high heat transfer, the ability to deform, fuse under the weight of large people, "noise" when setting water into the bowl.
  • Cast iron. Roads, reliable, durable. It does not make noise when filling with water, flawlessly maintains the temperature in the container. Because of the impressive weight, the installation of a cast-iron bath cannot be spent alone. Plumbing is rather fragile, with careless circulation, you can split a bowl or damage enamel.
  • Acrylic. Easy and inexpensive option, which is easier and logical to replace than to repair. It does not sound when the set of water, maintains heat, but serves as sufficiently long and does not please the stability. With the installation without difficulty you can cope with the personnel.

If there are people in the family with an impressive weight, plumbing containers made of steel and acrylic preferably to install additional supports from it with a brick or made of it.

These measures will ensure stability and stabilize the position of the bottom. The owners with a less solid complexion instead of capital brick devices are enough of the device of an additional frame from a bar or a steel profile.

Bath installation sequence with your own hands

Frame from a wooden bar or a metal profile will provide the opportunity to bore a kind of bath with tiles or arrange a niche under a sanitary room for the storage of hygiene accessories (+)

Bath forms are also pleased with the diversity. In addition to our familiar rectangular structures, there are oval and square. For small-sized bathrooms, corner models are increasingly used. And besides the products in which it is more convenient to take the bath lying, in demand and those that are specifically designed for the procedures in the "Sitting" position.

Gallery of images

Photo from

Plumbing equipment complex in the bathroom

Sliding communications to the installed bath

Siphon Device and Sewage Connection

Stitching the bathroom after installing the bath

The subtleties of choice of suitable personally, the baths are detailed to you in detail in another our site.

Preparation of the premises to the upcoming installation

If you have already made a choice in favor of a specific model, before starting the installation, a number of preparatory work should be performed. In addition, you should choose a place in advance, to decide how you will install the bath: you plan to work with your own hands, invite workers or call acquaintances.

After drawing up a peculiar plan of the upcoming actions, it is necessary to estimate the condition of the room, when the need for repair is detected, to hold it.

When do you need to sneak the walls?

Install the bath is best prior to wall cladding during the overhaul of the room. Such a sequence of performance will make it possible to achieve the best practical and aesthetic results.

Installation of the tile after installing the bath allows you to most effectively close all the gaps and cracks so that the moisture does not accumulate in them, due to which the ideal environment arises for the development of bacteria and mold.

If you were not going to do the bathroom repair, but they just wanted to replace the bath itself, you need to choose such a model that will be slightly higher than the previous one. At least 1.5 cm.

Note that the tile under the edge of the old bathroom differs in color from the total web: it has not been burning apart. In addition, it can have a contaminated surface that is no longer washed. Therefore, it is better to hide it.

Sealing seams

To close all the seams in the car adjacent to the side of the bath, you need to spend a lot of effort, but the result is worth it: your bathroom should be a place to concentrate strength, and not infections

How to properly prepare the floor?

The floor in the bathroom should be not only perfectly smooth, but also durable. This is especially important if we have to work with a cast iron product, which has a fair weight even without water.

If we are with our own hands under the bath with floor tiles, then it follows it by the method of indentation to exclude the formation of voids under it. Otherwise, the tile can crack during the operation of the bath.

Any bath, filled with water, creates a significant burden on the floor surface. For its uniform distribution, wooden lags can be used. Practice has shown that larch is optimally suitable for this purpose.

Prepare wood by treating with antobacterial and antiseptic solutions. The lags are then impregnated with PVA with a putty or olifa.

Lags not only redistribute the load, but also successfully solve the issue of increasing the height of the product. Sometimes it is necessary to lift the bath and in order to be installed. Such siphons will not give sewage waste to penetrate in the opposite direction. If the bath is slightly lifted, in the siphon, for example, the hair will be less accumulated.

Repair before installing the bath do it yourself

Before mounting and connecting the walls of the wall and the floor in the room you need to repair, if necessary to strengthen

Selection of suitable drain reinforcement

Choosing drain reinforcement, it is not difficult to confuse how wide the range of products offered by the market. And the truth is what characteristics when purchasing should pay close attention, and what can I ignore?

Production material of fittings

The building materials market offers us two types of materials: PVC (polyvinyl chloride) and polyisopropylene. With PVC, we meet more often, therefore choose it.

But relatively expensive polyisopropylene is not only stronger than polyvinyl chloride, but also has entire lists of indisputable advantages, it is:

  • Hardness . This material is significantly harder than its opponent, which reduces the likelihood of its mechanical damage during the installation of the bath.
  • Durability. His strength characteristics are not reduced over time.
  • Surface quality. The surface of this material is smoother than PVC, which means that the dirt sticks less to it.

Extremely important efficiency. The PDD of polyisopropylene is higher than that of PVC, since the friction of water about the wall of smooth pipes from this material is much smaller.

Quality elements of plum

Most of the plots that you see on sale are manufactured in China. In the process of their installation, a bolt is applied. Regardless of what material it is made, after a while, this bolt will oxidize, turns rust or corrosive in any other way.

You can buy a separate bolt from the stainless steel, but the spike is defined from its contact with the grid, which will significantly reduce the maintainability of the product.

Checking a configuration

The drain reinforcement for the bath industry offers in two versions: from PVC (polyvinyl chloride) or from PP (polypropylene). If you are interested in the long-term and reliability of the device, it is better to prefer polypropylene as a more resistant to the effects of household chemicals

By buying drain fittings, do not hesitate to check it out and make sure that all the elements declared in the passport are present:

  • Plum grid. The most economical of them all commercially available grids is a model that consists of two crossed crossbars. She traveled hair perfectly, preventing clogging. The most practical is the option with round holes, located around the perimeter of the product. The most reliable is called a grid having profiled oblique holes. However, this is the most expensive model.
  • Cork chain. It would seem that the chain is a detail that does not have a significant value. But it is not. Usually we use the chain that comes across to us in the set. Do it undesirable. Buy separately the one that fishermen is used. Its surface is covered with protective paint that does not allow water over time to spoil its appearance.
  • Overflower. In the old models of baths, the overflow tube is made of metal, but modern production offers the best option. Use a corrugated tube having a large diameter, and, therefore, bandwidth. High throughput of the pipe significantly reduces the risk of water overflow.

There are some nuances of installation that should be taken into account. For example, if the exhaust valve of the drain reinforcement is quite wide, you can connect, without using the cuff. At the same time, the clearance was simply poured with silicone-based sealant or Silicone himself.

Compliance of the size of the room and bath

The owners of spacious bathrooms can be calm: they have a wonderful opportunity to choose any like bath, unless they can fit in it.

All the others will have to thoroughly measure their small-sized premises to make sure that the selected model will be organically looked and will not deprive you the opportunity to place the appliance in the bathroom.

Variety of models

If the area of ​​your bathroom allows you to install a non-standard size and unusual bath, equipped with all sorts of additional features.

Remember that the appearance of the product can make a false impression. Some very similar to each other are absolutely different sizes. The most common sizes of baths from different materials are also different from each other.

The length of steel products is 150-180 cm, and the height is 65 cm, the width is 70-85 cm.

For cast iron models, three types of sizes are considered standard:

  • small-sized with a length of 120-130 cm and a width of 70 cm,
  • Eurostright with a 70 cm wide, but 140-150 cm long,
  • Large-sized with a width of 70-85 cm and from 170 to 180 cm long.

The choice of models from acrylic is truly huge. Their length varies between 120 to 190 cm, and the width is 70-170 cm.

Sitting bath

Compact sitting bath can be literally stuck with all sorts of electronics. The price of such a baby may be several times to exceed the cost of the standard model.

Small-sized bathrooms acquire for various reasons. Sometimes due to the fact that the bathroom is not enough space for a large structure. But sometimes the owners of large premises also make a choice in favor of compact models.

For example, elderly people and disabled people often recommend taking hygienic procedures in a sitting position. They need small-sized "seating" baths.

By the way, the fact that the model takes up little space in space does not make it cheaper. On the contrary, compact products are often very expensive. They are created in order to satisfy the needs of a number of people. And since they are in demand, it means that they will have to pay.

Gallery of images

Photo from

Installing a jacuzzi bath in a combined bathroom

Mixer with soul lecture on the adjustable bar

Bathroom Bathroom System

Siphon under the drain of the hydromassage bath

Tropical shower watering can with waterfall

Main Vangeant Installation Mixer for Jacuzzi

Careful connection of the device for water seals

Power supply to jacuzzi baths

However, quite other models are commonly in spacious premises. They are made of acrylic or cast iron. Cast iron looks monumentally and reliably, but no complaints about originality, but the acrylic variety can be envied. There are angular, and rectangular models, there are even polygons or ovals. The abundance of decorative decoration also impresses.

Sometimes buyers, falling under the influence of unfair sellers, instead of products from acrylic buy cheap fakes from plastic. As a rule, this is a Chinese low-quality consumer industry, which will suffer then to install. We will still return to the nuances of the installation of plastic baths.

Expensive multifunctional model

Modern bath models are becoming more complicated and multifunctional: Progress allows you to satisfy the increasing needs of customers, there would be money

Preparation for owning installation

Baths, regardless of type or size, are installed not for one reception. The same actions are made when connected and full-dimensional bowls. The number of operations is significantly increased when the jacuzzi is installed.

In the process of their installation, there will be some special tools that would be better to prepare in advance so that they are at hand, such as:

  • Rule. That is how, with an emphasis on the letter "and", called a smooth long strap. Its length should be equal to the diagonal of the bath that we have to install. If there is no rule in your farm, and I don't want to buy it specifically for the only operation, you can use any smooth and long bar with a level installed on it.
  • Forky key. This tool is used to mount drain mechanisms, which are usually performed from plastic.
  • Rubber hammer. It is necessary if you need to sit down the legs of the bath. Rubber, unlike metal, does not hurt enamel bath and will not cause the deformation of the product itself.

Silicone sealant is needed as an additional material. If you have to install an acrylic bath, do not forget to stock up "rag" with a tape.

Alignment and Connection Plumbing

We will align the bath with a level. At the same time, such a principle should be adhered to: raise the omitted part, and not lower the raised. Do not forget that it matters for us.

First, it is necessary to finish the alignment of the bath, and only then connect it to the sewer plum. Otherwise, you can accidentally spoil the siphon.

Bath installation quality

In order to highlight the bath and check its installation, you need to use the rule, repeating the verification procedure several times

You can align the bath with your own hands in two ways:

When aligned diagonally, the rule is laid on opposite container angles. On the rule, the rule is set. Align the bath with the method of twisting its legs, until the level shows that our goal is achieved.

After that, we shift the rule with the level to other angles, also located diagonally relative to each other. The procedure should be repeated twice to make sure the result.

When aligning on the side, the rule is installed first by one side of the bathroom, and then differently. First, adjustment of one side of the capacity, and then another. This procedure should also be repeated several times, because when adjusting one of the sides, the second can lose the setting. This method is significantly more laborious than diagonally. If the floor itself has an uneven surface, then you have to sweat.

How to prepare the sewer?

Water will have to turn off. Perhaps you have to overlap the water supply around the house, but most likely it will be possible to do with apartments driven on one with your living space.

In any case, people should be warned in advance so that this event does not become an unpleasant surprise for those who wash the dishes at this time, erases or takes a shower or bath.

The purpose of this event is to achieve a complete absence of moisture not only in the pipe of the sewage tube, but also in the pipe itself too. By ensuring dryness, we will achieve better sealing during the connection process. To dry the inner and outer surface of the pipe, you can use the usual home hairdryer.

Gallery of images

Photo from

The first thing the bath will bring in the bathroom bathroom to choose an optimal place for it and decide on the track laying of communications

If the level of sewage release allows you to connect a bowl to it without additional actions, the bath is installed directly on the aligned draft

If the height of the legs included in the plumbing bundle is not enough to connect to the release into the sewer, it is installed on bricks, beams or blocks

The place that will be closed by a plumbing device, carefully waterproof the cooler composition or rolled material

After the preparation of the bath space is set to the method selected during the preparation. At the location on blocks or bricks, the contact location is strengthened with solution

Bath disguise box Constructing from foam concrete blocks, brick or drywall with subsequent trim tile or aquanels. Do not forget to leave a hatch for revision

The shape and design of the hatch is chosen as desired, but it is much better that his outside side is finished by analogy with a box.

The decoration of the bathroom or combined bathroom is desirable to perform after installing the bath and other types of plumbing, but repairing indoor fragments is possible.

Definition of the position of the bath in the bathroom

Size the height of the bowl relative to the release of the sewage

Installing a bath on bricks if necessary

Waterproofing space around a bath bowl

Treatment with a solution of the contact site of the legs of a bath with blocks

Device masking box around the bowl

Variant of a large audit tubing

Finishing the bathroom after installing and connecting the bath

Detailed installation guide

Everything. Workplace is ready. Getting started. Since the installation of baths of different types has its own characteristics, let's talk separately about this procedure for each type of bath. Let's start with the acrylic model.

Bath device

In general, the connection diagram of any bath is similar to this. There are some features of working with a model caused by the properties of materials from which it is made

Installation of acrylic plumbing

When you will be in the store, note that the set has special guides for fastening the legs of the bathroom. They are called lodents. They are installed across the tank. It is in them that the legs should be screwed.

To the surface of the bath, the lifes are attached with the help of self-tapping screws included in the product package. Self-tapping screws should be included in the holes specially designed for them.

Otherwise, they can simply shift the bath. When drilling, use the drill, equipped with the limiter. Deeper than three-quarters of the holes of the holes of the hole can not be done.

Lands are installed. Now the bath should be gently put on the side surface and engage in connecting drain reinforcement. Do not forget before installing drain fittings, all gaskets that will be used to carefully treat silicone.

If you do not want to scandal with neighbors from below and pay for expensive repair, make sure that the drain gasket is installed outside.

Connecting plum

When connecting drain, special attention should be paid to the tightness of all compounds and the quality of the gaskets. Safety during operation bath is extremely important

Of course, in the bath designs there are threaded connections of elements. Do not tighten them tightly, because the installation process is not easy, articulation and individual elements of the bath can be damaged, and they will have to be replaced.

If we are, it should come close to three of the four walls. Make sure that the tube release docked with the sewer nozzle. Now you can align the bath with the ruler, and the connection of the release with the nozzle is treated with sealant.

When the sealant begins to stick, take the fork key and tighten all relaxed threaded connections.

Bath connection to waste highway

This is one of the options for connecting the bath to the waste highway, which is performed qualitatively and extremely simple, as must be

Everything, sealant frozen finally. Now you need all available joints to check for leakage. All disadvantages are eliminated, and if they are not, then proceed to the processing of the slots between the walls and the bathroom. To do this, use the same sealant.

Steel Capacity Mounting Nuances

There are no special nuances. It is mounted almost the same as acrylic. The algorithm of work is the same except for the method of fastening the legs. For steel tanks, the legs are attached with wedges, studs or bolts. When used for this purpose bolts, know that it will have to twist them alternately and gradually.

No matter how it seemed to you that everything is attached correctly, it is not necessary to turn the bolt until you stop. It is possible that the thin adjustment of the legs will be needed, which will be impossible if the bolts are finally fixed.

We have already said that in the process of filling the steel bath, a jet of water, hitting the wall of the container, publishes a loud sound. To muffle it, you can put into the space between the surface of the bath and fastening the legs to lay pieces of automotive rubber or fill it with a mounting foam.

About how the sealing of the junction is made between the wall and the bowl, you can.

Features Installation Bathtub Cast iron

Cast iron - heavy material. And the bath is made of great weight. In order for this massive subject to damage the doorways and furniture, you need to properly organize installation work. Adjust and perform a bath connection should be directly in the bathroom without transferring the capacity to other rooms.

Some cast iron baths can be equipped with decorative legs. Such models become a real decoration of the interior and the designer find. If in the process of adjusting the level of such a bath to use boosting gaskets, you can completely destroy all the efforts of the designer.

Beautiful cast iron bath

Pay attention to the legs of this charming cast iron model. Of course, it is impossible to unscrew or lengthen, putting some materials under them, but they should stand on an ideally smooth surface.

You can bypass this moment by feeding the legs at the base, but these works are qualitatively able to fulfill only a professional.

There are features and when connecting drain to sewage. Better on the side not to lay. You can simply raise the front of the tank. At the same time, an additional space will appear, which will be enough to perform work. It should be temporarily fixed in the desired state, using wooden bars.

The general principle of work is due to maximum accuracy and in the absence of an opportunity to move heavy tanks.

Guidelines for the installation of pig-iron containers on bricks, if in the specified solution there is a need, you will find in placed on our website.

Plastic Bath Installation Nuances

Plastic baths are a cheap analogue of acrylic models, therefore the process of installing these models is similar to one with another. But the difference, of course, is. For plastic design, a special pillow must be created, the task of which is to remove the load on the bottom of the product.

The pillow can be made of wood (from larch) or from cement. Plastic baths should be operated very carefully. To care for it with aggressive detergents is strictly prohibited. If these nuances ignore, then after 7 years, and then after 5 years, the bath will need to throw out.

Bath Screen Construction

The space between the bathroom and the floor can and not close if the outer surface of the model has an attractive appearance. But more often we still try to close this gap.

This can be done using, for example. This bathroom accessory is sold in stores, but some prefer homemade screens. Homemade attracts its uniqueness and low cost.

Bath screen

Those who think that the bath screen is used only to cover the side surface of the bath, mistaken. It can be the storage location of all kinds of household chemicals and hygiene.

Conclusions and useful video on the topic

Installation of any bath - not such a slight lesson, as it may seem. In this video presents some nuances of the installation, which should be paid attention to. Look and think, do you put this job yourself:

The theory of how to establish different types of baths with your own hands, we outlined you. It remains only to apply the knowledge gained in practice. We warn that the theory is not always easily embodied in practice.

You will have to skillfully use different tools, as well as to show the knowledge of the subtleties of the installation process. Special attention should be paid to cast-iron products. Show reasonable caution so as not to damage your arms and legs.

Ask a question or tell about how you personally installed the bath and connected it to sewage, you can be located below the block below. Please comment, please share useful information. We and visitors of the site are interested in your opinion.

Homemade bath

Standard material manufacturing bath - steel, cast iron or acrylic. Despite all the variety of shapes, sizes and styles, the factory products do not claim originality, as they are manufactured on the conveyor. The only way out if you wish to get an exclusive and one-of-a-kind font - self-made bath. Technologies and materials for the manufacture of the bath with their own hands are considered in this material.

Bath of bricks

The technology on which the brick bath is made, allows you to build a design of any size and configuration, since the mold is not required for its construction. The technological process includes the following steps:

Bricklaying

Plaster and waterproofing

When the masonry works are completed, proceed to the plaster to smooth out all the irregularities and corners. On top of the plaster, it is necessary to apply waterproofing, the optimal option is to use polymer or combined coating compositions, as they give the minimum layer at a high degree of waterproof. Another way is to plastering the walls and the bottom of cement mortar with the addition of liquid glass or special waterproofing additives or the use of finished cement waterproofing (for example, Ceresit CR 65).

Application of the waterproofing layer

Note! The use of rolled waterproofing or mastic on a bituminous basis reduces clutch strength with subsequent bath trim, so it is not recommended to use them.

Decorative decoration

After applying the waterproofing layer, the decorative bath trim is proceeded. To do this, use a ceramic or porcelain tape mosaic. At the same time, the mosaic due to its small sizes allows you to sneak surfaces with any bend radius and complex designs. Facing glued on waterproof glue. The seam rubble is carried out after setting glue with epoxy grout.

Facing homemade bath with a cafeter outside

Such a bath is obtained beautiful outward and reliable in terms of design tightness.

Brick Bath with Combined Facing

Concrete bath

Another material from which the baths make their own hands is concrete. The advantage of such a font is the monolithium and lack of seams, which makes it very durable and durable.

Bathtub of concrete

Consider step bypass technology of self-making baths made of concrete.

Note! Concrete design has a solid weight, so it is not recommended to build it in apartment buildings, to optimally make it on the first floor of a private cottage with a solid monolithic foundation or using a primer as a base.

Planning and preparation of wiring

For the manufacture of a concrete bath, a plastic liner will be required, which determines the dimensions of the finished product. Based on the dimensions of the mold, it is planned to locate the bowl, water supply and sewage, the fill thickness of the concrete and so on.

Plastic Bath Mold
Plastic press form for making a concrete bath.

Making the drawing and plaguing everything in place, sewer and water pipes are laid.

Preparation of plum

A drain flange is connected to the sewer tube.

Flanged Water Flange

Installation of the liner

For the stability of the mold during the pouring of concrete, a supporting framework is constructed. By setting the form, it must be loaded or securely fix it in one way so that the concrete does not squeeze it from the landing place.

Installation of plastic form for casting

The next step is the installation and sealing of the overflow nozzle (if provided for by the sewer design).

When the whole design is configured, it is disassembled and rubbed plastic from the outer side with wax, silicone lubricant or other bold so that the press form is easier to remove after the fill of the concrete.

Rubbing plastic walls silicone

Tip! If the fill is made on the floor, it is recommended to seal the adjoining wall and base of silicone.

Then the mold is installed in place, and the plums and overflows are tested with silicone.

Collection of formwork

The next step is the arrangement of the formwork, which limits the space for the fill. To the outer edge of the bath turns out to be smooth and smooth, as a "limiter" it is better to use any durable sheet material so that there are no seams. The frame is firmly fixed so that when the pouring does not displace.

Opal

Concreting

After completing all the preparatory work, the space between the walls, formwork and the mold is poured by a concrete mixture. The fill is made in one day, the separation of the process into several steps is unacceptable. To ensure the continuity of the process, it is better to attract assistant.

Important! When pouring concrete, special attention is paid to space under the form - here it is necessary to seal the concrete especially carefully to remove all air bubbles. You can use a low-power depth vibrator, but with extreme caution.

Concrete is poured over with the edges of the mold and left for grasp by 3-5 days.

Pouring concrete

Removing the formwork and removing the liner

When concrete grabs well (no earlier than 3-5 days), remove the formwork. It usually does not occur with this. Difficulties occur when the plastic concrete is removed. If it was not possible to manually pull it out, it is equipped with a design with two screw clamps that act through the beam as a lifting crane. Screws on the clips are gradually tightened, while the shape is closed from the inside - the plastic liner is extracted.

Reception of molds from concrete

Grinding

The entire concrete surface is polished with shallow emery paper, especially the edges that can be made slightly rounded - fresh concrete is well removed by abrasive. After grinding with a vacuum cleaner, all dust is removed. Concrete has sinks remaining from air bubbles - they are filled with waterproof spacing based on white cement. The putty is applied to a uniform layer over the entire surface, and after 15-20 minutes after applying itches with a spatula, since the main task is to fill the sinks so that the surface becomes smooth and smooth. To fill large shells and voids, 2-3 passages with intermediate surface grinding with small abrasive can be required.

Putty surface

After putty and grinding the surface, the finished concrete bath for giving it the color is revealed by a mourn for concrete surfaces and leave until complete drying.

Applying the veil

Decorative treatment

An ordinary sheet of paper can serve as a complete drying of concrete, which leaving for several hours in the bathroom should remain absolutely dry. When concrete dries, the surface is treated with acetone, and after drying it - a primer in 2-3 layers. While the primer dries, a liquid sealant is prepared, to apply which it is advisable to use a spray gun. After drying, the sealant is the surface of concrete acquires a glossy shine and gets reliable protection against water exposure.

Finishing bath finishes

Polystyrene bath

A polystyrene foam can be used as a building material instead of bricks. The advantages of using foam for forming a bath frame is its low weight, ease of processing and the ability to create a design of any form in a short time. Such a bath due to its insignificant weight, when performing reliable waterproofing, you can make in the apartment. The general principle of the manufacture of a bath is similar as in the case of bricks, consider some nuances of the process:

  • Polystyrene foam cuts into pieces of necessary shape and size with a hacksaw or knife.
  • A arbitrary shape of the bath is laid out. Polyfoam is glued on a special mounting glue for expanded polystyrene.
  • When the frame is ready, plastering by several layers of waterproof glue using the reinforcing grid. This stage performs several functions: enhancing the design, giving the desired streamlined forms, as well as bath waterproofing.
  • After drying the plaster layer, the surface is ground and treated with a liquid waterproofing composition.
  • Facing is made by mosaic using waterproof glue.
  • The final stage is to fill the seams with waterproof epoxy grout, which increases the tightness of the seams.

Bath manufacturing technology from foam foam pieces

Photo of homemade baths

In conclusion, we give the photo crying of ready-made solutions of homemade baths.

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Modern manufacturers of plumbing equipment offer consumers a huge selection of baths both in design and functionality and manufacturing materials. But all these goods cannot be considered exclusive, only baths created by their own hands exist in a single copy. It is impossible to make a bath from metal on their own, but there are options for the production of structures from polymeric materials. Make a polymer bathroom is very difficult, for this you will need a lot of time and knowledge of special technological processes. In connection with the difficulties described above, such baths are independently made extremely rare. Much easier to make baths made of concrete or bricks, followed by cladding ceramic tiles. It is these two options that we will consider in detail in the article.

Bath with your own hands

Bath with your own hands

Bathtub of concrete

This design is more complicated by brick, but has, in comparison with it, a number of advantages.

  1. High strength. For strength, concrete baths are located at one level with cast iron. The construct mirror itself is withstanding great efforts, only the finish decorative bathing can be damaged. Concrete Bath: Stylish Design

    Concrete Bath: Stylish Design

  2. Long service life. Modern concrete mixes can be operated for many years. Concrete has one unique feature - material strength reaches hundreds of years. In the first 14 days, concrete is gaining approximately 50% of the maximum strength, in the future the speed of increased strength slows down and in ten years it is hundredths of percent. But despite this, the strength of the structure does not decrease, but increase, albeit quite slightly.
Bathtub of concrete

Bathtub of concrete

Such a bath will serve for a very long time.

Such a bath will serve for a very long time.

There are disadvantages of concrete baths.

  1. The first - The complexity of making formwork . If there is a desire to create a beautiful bath with various smooth bends and transitions, then the most difficult stage is considered to be the process of manufacturing and installing the formwork.
  2. Second - quite large weight . Mass of the bath should take into account the carriers of overlapping.
  3. Third - Excludes access to water drain systems . All pipes and siphons are completely poured with concrete, in the event of emergency situations there are tremendous difficulties on their liquidation. During the installation of pipelines and engineering systems, this feature should be borne in mind and take all measures to guarantee the reliability of work. Only the most durable materials of the manufacture of siphons and pipelines are brewing, installation is performed in strict accordance with the existing regulatory acts and manufacturers recommendations.
Wiring pipes in the apartment for the installation of the bath

Wiring pipes in the apartment for the installation of the bath

How is the bath from concrete?

Step 1. Decide with the size and configuration of the bath.

Reinforcement of the walls
Reinforcement of the walls
Bath diagram with dimensions
Bath diagram with dimensions

Keep in mind that the cubic meter of concrete weighs more tons, make sure the overlap strength. Another nuance - be sure to revise the existing water removal. Clean old sewer pipes or replace them with new ones, check the state of rubber seals. These communications after installing the concrete bath will be inaccessible to repair. If you do everything correctly, the sewage can regularly serve several decades.

Practical advice. Concrete baths are allowed to do only on factory overlap plates. Never try to build such an object on wooden beams.

Step 2. Make the layout of the contour of the bath on the stove, draw the position of the external and inner walls. It is desirable that two surfaces rest in the lateral interior partitions, this can be done only if the partitions are made of brick or foam concrete.

Bath diagram, which will be in the pavilion on the street

Bath diagram, which will be in the pavilion on the street

If your bath will stand out on the street, prepare the base. Align soil, pour and dream sand

If your bath will stand out on the street, prepare the base. Align soil, pour and dream sand

It is recommended to use the insulation to reduce heat loss in the future

It is recommended to use the insulation to reduce heat loss in the future

Step 3. Remove in the stove of the hole for vertical fittings. The diameter of the reinforcement is approximately 6-8 mm, the distance between the rods 20-30 cm. The reinforcement must be associated with a wire Ø 1-2 mm and thus create a reinforcing belt.

The connection of the rods is performed by wire knitting

The connection of the rods is performed by wire knitting

Mounted nozzle for the technological hole

Mounted nozzle for the technological hole

Connection of reinforcement in the corner

Connection of reinforcement in the corner

Important. Carefully drill holes in the concrete slabs. If the drill fell into a metal bar, then make the hole elsewhere, it is strictly forbidden to damage the reinforcing belt reinforced concrete plate.

Step 4. Start making formwork. This is the most difficult stage, the formwork has a curvilinear profile. For vertical racks, use bars about 30 × 30 mm, a smooth part can be made from edged boards with a thickness of approximately 20 mm or waterproof plywood.

Do curvilinear shields need in such a sequence.

  1. Prepare two edged boards with a thickness of about 25 mm and a width of 25-30 cm. The specific width of the boards depends on the actual radius of the bends of the bath circuit. The minimum width of the board after cutting should be at least three centimeters.
  2. Carefully on one board Draw the contour of a complex bath profile. It is recommended to make the drawing at the beginning of the drawing on a dense paper, check it out correctly, if necessary, correct, and only then use it as a template for transfer to the board.
  3. Electric jigsaw cut the board over the drawn line.
  4. Route it onto the second board, outline the outline and cut the surplus.
  5. Two slats, cover the boards on the ends, the height should be equal to the height of the bath. If the design is unstable, then with the back of the shield, install diagonal struts.
  6. To the profile side of the boards, the rails are 20 × 30 mm at a distance of about 30 cm.
  7. To the jumpers with small carnations or wood screws, lock the sheets of thin plywood. To prevent her wetting, the surface of the sheets is recommended several times to heal with lean oil, olifa or machine oil. Plywood thickness is not more than 2 mm, it should be easily bent.

Practical advice. The smaller the rounding radius, the more often the vertical jumpers should be located.

Do not rush with the manufacture of formwork shields, check the dimensions several times, provide for the possible consequences of your actions.

Step 5. Replace the formwork. The minimum wall thickness of the concrete bath should be 7 cm, the curvature radius thickness can increase to 15 cm.

Practical advice. No need to make a bath from concrete very thick. First, the weight of the design is significantly increased. Secondly, a lot of hot water will need for warming the bath. Although, with another moan, the harder bath, the more time it retains the water warm.

While mounting the formwork, use inclined backups. Constantly check the stability of the design, if there are steady, then in problem places, install additional backups. When the formwork is fully fixed, you can proceed to the fill with concrete.

Installing the shield from the inside

Installing the shield from the inside

The photo shows the mounted formwork for the rectangular bowl.

The photo shows the mounted formwork for the rectangular bowl.

Shields are bonded with each other

Shields are bonded with each other

Exterior shields are additionally fixed by the backups.

Outdoor shields are additionally fixed by the backups.

What is waterproof concrete

Due to the fact that the inner surfaces of the bath will be lined with ceramic tiles, use traditional methods of waterproofs is not recommended - they all significantly reduce the adhesion coefficient for tiles with a bath surface. And the tile is operated under conditions of long-term direct contact with water and at elevated temperatures. Due to the relatively large oscillations of linear dimensions, the tile fixation strength still decreases, the bathroom has to be repaired quite often. Conclusion - the use of waterproofing materials is inappropriate. Professionals recommend pouring a bath with special concrete. In order not to be mistaken during the choice, you should familiarize yourself with their characteristics and features.

The number and method of using additives is indicated by manufacturers, strictly follow the instructions.

Waterproof concrete

Waterproof concrete

How to make a hydraulic concrete

How to make a hydraulic concrete

How to cook concrete manually

Concrete can be prepared with a concrete mixer or manually. There are several methods of preparation of the mixture, we will tell about the easiest. The bath does not require a large amount of material, the whole process takes only a few hours. For stirring, a small trough of 60 × 80 cm and the height of the sides of 30 cm should be prepared. It includes three sand buckets and as many rubble, the volume is quite enough for the rhythmic fill of the formwork. Make yourself from sheet iron or buy factory in business stores. Cooking concrete can be prepared directly in the bathroom room, which speeds up the process. To prepare the material you will need a special chip for kneading. It has in the middle of the slot, which makes it easier to stirring and implants the homogeneity of the mixture.

  1. Put the cement bucket in the trough.
  2. Pour about one and a half water bucket. There is no need to measure, in the future, water can be added. Pouring water

    Pouring water

  3. Thoroughly chop the cement with water until the homogeneous mass is obtained. Stir until the mass becomes homogeneous

    Stir until the mass becomes homogeneous

  4. Add three buckets of rubble to the container, mix the ingredients thoroughly. Floating rubble

    Floating rubble

    Stirring process

    Stirring process

  5. Fail off the sand, as needed to plie the water, mix thoroughly. Floating sand

    Floating sand

    Added sand

    Added sand

    Stir up to homogeneity

    Stir up to homogeneity

For filling formwork, concrete must have a consistency of thick sour cream. It is not recommended to make a lot of liquid to make a mass, during frosting it gives a big shrinkage. In addition, cement milk will leak through the small slots.

If there is a concrete mixer, it is better to use it, and not a trough

If there is a concrete mixer, it is better to use it, and not a trough

Bath fill technology

The process is not considered complex, but has technological features that should certainly take into account.

  1. Pour the concrete portion throughout the perimeter of the formwork. No need to pour a lot on the one hand, and then align the layer. So it cannot be done for several reasons. First, uneven load can disrupt the integrity of the formwork. Secondly, the bath has a reinforcing belt that creates large problems during concrete alignment. In addition, it can be damaged, disrupt the gaps, etc.
  2. When the layer thickness is reached, approximately 25-30 cm must be trambed it. It must be done to remove possible air pockets. It is better to rub with special electric vibrators if they are not, then use any infrident means. Just remember that inside there is wire, work carefully. Vibrator for concrete

    Vibrator for concrete

  3. If for any reason for one day, it was not possible to pour the entire volume of the bath, the last layer should be aligned as much as possible by horizontally. Do not leave steps, in these places the clutch force between the old and new solution is significantly reduced.
  4. Follow the temperature and humidity of the room indoors. Concrete must not dry, but to stick. During the rapid drying of moisture, it becomes not enough for optimal conditions for the flow of chemical reactions of setting, concrete does not gain calculated strength. The consequences can be very sad. If the room is very warm and dry, then cover the entire formwork with a plastic film.

After the fill, the craftsman tool the surface of the bath. If small leaks are found in the course of work, they should be immediately eliminated.

Dismantling formwork and fill bottom

Do not hurry with dismantling, the time of structures should be at least two weeks. Remove the shields of the formwork should be gradually and without much effort. Try to dismantle in such a way that the surfaces of the concrete bath are not damaged.

Scrap-Bourke (Lamb Bar for Disassembling Formwork)

Scrap-Bourke (Lamb Bar for Disassembling Formwork)

To fill the bottom of the bath, you need to prepare the same concrete as for lateral surfaces. Before starting work, check the condition of the drain, the height of the drain grille should be equal to the minimum thickness of the bottom plus the thickness of the glue and ceramic tiles. Pour material parts, simultaneously make the surface alignment with a small slope to the drain hole. To prevent plum clogging temporarily close it with a special plug or any rag.

Bathing concrete surface alignment

Very complicated process, it is necessary to work with graters of various sizes, spatula and cells. For final alignment, foam rubber is used. The alignment solution must be prepared from sainted sand. The amount of cement is increased by about 1.5 times in comparison with conventional proportions.

Bathing concrete surface alignment

Bathing concrete surface alignment

Initially, the spatula is cleaned with sharp differences of heights on the surfaces, they are formed in places of adjustment of formwork shields. If concrete is very frozen, then it should be used to the alignment.

Surface need carefully align

Surface need carefully align

Before grouting, the cement-sandy surface should be wetted, use a sprayer or brushing. If concrete is not saved, then the thin layer of the solution can fall off, have this in mind. Mass thump the grated circular movements. If large traces remained, they are smoothed by a wet sponge. After alignment, the bath must be left alone for two days.

Make sure the surface is smooth and smooth

Make sure the surface is smooth and smooth from the inside and outside

For waterproofing use primer bituminous

For waterproofing use primer bituminous

Since the bath is on the street, it produced waterproofing the lower part in contact with the soil

Since the bath is on the street, it produced waterproofing the lower part in contact with the soil

Communications connected to the bath

Communications connected to the bath

Bath Facing Technology Mosaic Tile

Mosaic tile allows you to sneak curvilinear surfaces. It is better to use clinker, it does not absorb moisture.

General requirements

  1. The glue must be moisture-proof and plastic, use the materials on a cement basis is not recommended.
  2. Grouting necessarily with antiseptic properties, intercutric seams need to fill over the entire thickness without skipping.
  3. Do not use tiles with sharp edges, pay attention to the surface. It should be anti-slip.
  4. The thickness of the glue should be such that the surplus is not squeezed between separate tile elements. It is only necessary to work with a comb spatula.
  5. In all parts of the glue, it is necessary to apply a minimum of two times, the direction of the second time perpendicular to the first one. Only thus it will be possible to achieve dense rubbing of the material into the surface of the bath.
How to lay a mosaic with your own hands

How to lay a mosaic with your own hands

Features of laying tile

The problem is that the surface of the bath is not only curvilinear, but also have a different width. Such features of geometry create difficulties during the laying of mosaic tiles. How do professionals advise?

  1. Before starting work, place the plates of the mosaic tile on the surface. Study the sections with a pencil, which includes whole plates without trimming.
  2. Stacking should be started with smooth side surfaces, the bottom is separated at the final stage. Laying mosaic

    Laying mosaic

  3. If you need to align the width of the seams, the tile is cut in the right place by the mounting knife, the release of the mesh follows two adjacent rows. Sliced ​​rows are slightly shifted in one direction or another, while you need to choose this position so that the width difference is imperceptible to the eye. If necessary, cut the grid

    If necessary, cut the grid

  4. The grout should be started only after the adhesion of glue, the exact time is indicated by the manufacturer.
  5. Plots on which whole squares are not placed, it is necessary to accurately place. All small squares that need to be cut into parts, better remove at all. Glue the remaining piece, and the holes close after drying. Before that, it is neatly cut from each small square on the desired size and is glued to a free space. Such technology slightly slows down, but improves quality.
  6. Pay attention to the mosaic seams on the corners in the corners. Due to the displacement of one row, it is possible to eliminate the disintegration of no more than a millimeter, otherwise the correction will be noticeable. Measure the width of the mismatch and, depending on this parameter, slicing the required number of mosaic rows for alignment. Mosaic seams must coincide

    Mosaic seams must coincide

  7. The grout of the seams need to be done only by a rubber spatula. The bath has many curvilinear surfaces, a rigid metal spatula physically cannot completely fill the tile seams to the entire thickness. Applying a cloud mixture

    Applying a cloud mixture

    After performing the grouts, the surplus is cleaned with a wet sponge

    After performing the grouts, the surplus is cleaned with a wet sponge

    This looks like a qualitatively lined surface of a bath from concrete, located in the pavilion on the street

    This looks like a qualitatively lined surface of a bath from concrete, located in the pavilion on the street

Cutting the squares of the mosaic tile are manually using a grinder with a diamond disk. The tool must be serviceable, the disk batting is categorically prohibited.

Important. Pay attention to the diamond disk for tile, not concrete. The first has solid side surfaces, and the second has long through slots. They are needed to remove concrete dust, but during cutting they create shock loads, because of them the tile cracks. Work with a tool very carefully, follow safety rules. If you have a small workbench - perfectly, when cutting, secure the tile in it. Between sponges and tiles. Lining the cuts of boards, do not allow direct contact of the clinker or ceramics with metal. If there is no workbench, you will have to keep chips with pliers. It is quite difficult, you need to have practical skills to perform such works.

Bathtub of concrete in the apartment

Bathtub of concrete in the apartment

View from another angle

View from another angle

Making a brick bath

The technology is much easier than the above described. From bricks or foam blocks, the box is laid out and the bottom, the masonry seams are carefully embarrassed. As a waterproofing, you can use mastic or rolled materials.

Practical advice. For the bath it is better to use foam blocks. Not only easier to operate with them, this material is characterized by low thermal conductivity. In addition, foam blocks are not afraid of water, and the red brick cannot be operated in wet conditions.

Then the external and internal surfaces are plastered, repeatedly aligned. Finish finish - ceramic tile. The process of laying the coating is standard and no special differences have. The main requirement is attentiveness and conscientiousness. Always remember that it will take a lot more time to eliminate marriage than to comply with the recommended technologies. In addition, unscheduled repair work with concrete or brick baths require significant financial losses.

Beginning of brick masonry. First row

Beginning of brick masonry. First row

Laying bricks on the bottom. Simultaneously, communications are laid

Laying bricks on the bottom. Simultaneously, communications are laid

Laying the side is conducted in terms of

Laying the side is conducted in terms of

Continuation of masonry work

Continuation of masonry work

Trim outdoor walls tile

Trim outdoor walls tile

From the inside the bath is finished with mosaic

From the inside the bath is finished with mosaic

Conclusion

Before proceeding to the manufacture of brick or concrete bath, carefully weigh everything for and against. In implementing, buyers are offered a large selection of products, without any problems can be parted at the appropriate version, quality, operational indicators and cost. Installation of the heated towel rail in the bathroom. Explore the link.

Bath

Video - Facing Mosaic Tile

The rationally located and trouble-free acting plumbing in the bathroom is an important component of the comfort of the hosts. Her impeccable connection is a guarantee of good relationships with neighbors from the apartment below. To achieve the ideal, a professional installation is needed, with the price for which not everyone agrees. But it is possible to significantly reduce the cost of replacing the old plumbing. If the bath is installed with your own hands, then it is necessary to pay only for consumables. However, an excellent result can only be achieved if the technological rules are met with which we are willing to share with you.

Check out the detailed description of the installation process and plumbing, made of cast iron, acrylic, steel. Those thoroughly set off the nuances of connecting to sewage.

Selection of plumbing and reinforcement

Bath is a multifunctional product that can be used for washing, washing and other needs involving a large amount of water. The container is made of durable materials, a larger mass of liquid and an adult. Compounds of fittings are sealed to prevent leakage. In modern devices there are often hydromassage and so on.

Acrylic

Acrylic bath.

steelSteel bath.

cast ironCast iron bath.

Select plumbing in the bathroom is recommended by type of material. Each of them has its advantages and disadvantages. Today we produce 3 varieties of baths:

  1. Cast iron. Traditional products made of carbon and iron alloy covered with enamel. Durable and durable, they are both standard design (rectangular, size of 1.7x0.7 m), and decorative, with a bowl of an unusual shape and beautiful legs "under ancient", as well as seating or enlarged (2 m long). The main disadvantage is a large weight (120-150 kg).
  2. Steel. They are distinguished by lower mass indicators (up to 50 kg) and wall thicknesses and, as a result, insufficient sound insulation during the set of water and reception of the shower. Such baths are worse kept warm, and the water in them quickly cools. Set the container from steel better on the monolithic base so that the bottom is not deformed.
  3. Acrylic. The material includes the advantages of both metal varieties: it is not no cozy when the water falls on the surface is easy and durable, it retains warmth well. Acrylic baths are cast and in the form of corner bowls of large capacity, and in standard version. The lack of acrylic compared with the metal is low mechanical strength. With careless circulation or exploitation by people with a large wall weighing can crack and give to flow. But the lightweight container is easy to replace, and its cost is small (depending on the complexity and configuration).

Training

Before installing this plumbing product, it is necessary to prepare the entire room, which will allow competent installation and guarantee durability. First you need to pay attention to the walls. If the installation of a new bath is carried out simultaneously with the repair indoor, then the facing is made after installation. If the repair work will not be carried out, the new device must be at least a few centimeters above the old one.

Special attention should be paid to the floor, which should be perfectly even and reliable, without plinths, able to withstand the weight of the product being installed.

Even an empty cast-iron bath weighs quite a lot, so the base under it must be prepared correctly. Not every tile is able to withstand such a load. If the tile laid on a solid cement, this ensures maximum strength and reliability. If there is even a minimum emptiness under the tile, then it will crack from such pressure.

  

If it is not possible to carry out repair work on the floor covering, you can simply put two durable plates from larch, which will reduce pressure on the floor and tile.

However, the tree must be treated with the help of fungicides, since the shower room is a sufficiently wet room, so all materials should be protected from rotting. With the help of a board pillow, you can not only get rid of problems with the load on the floor covering, but also resolve the issue with a bath height.

  

How to install a bath with your own hands (step by step instruction)

Consider the installation process.

Installation with your own hands

To install the acrylic bath, you need to perform the following steps.

  • Install legs or reference frame;
  • attach to the product guide for legs (this is done using self-tapping screws, which usually come in the kit);
  • put in place of installation, flip over the side and install drain pipes;
  • Install on legs or frame;
  • Fill the space between the product and the wall of the sealant.

Instead of sealant, you can use a flexible waterproof plinth. It is placed on the edge of the bath. However, this is possible only if it allows the thickness of the product.

It is important to move the bath close to the wall. If this is not done, it can slightly hang out. For acrylic, it is critical - the material is quite fragile, cracks or chips may appear.

The space under the bathroom is also filled with sealant. This is necessary to solve two tasks.

  • Bath deflection compensation. Acrylic products have a certain elasticity and can be fed under the influence of greater weight. Such a deflection can lead to a disruption of the integrity of the structure (for example, the appearance of cracks). The sealant acts in this case acts as a kind of shock absorber.
  • Prevention of leakage. If there is a leak of a drain with a bath or when the crack appears, the leakage will occur, most of the water will delay the sealant layer.

Due to the small weight of acrylic baths, all manipulations can be done alone.

Installation of pig-iron bath do it yourself

In general, the installation procedure of the cast iron bath is not different from the installation process of the acrylic. However, there are nuances.

  • When installing a drain, the product from the cast iron is better not to lay on the side. First, due to weight it can damage the tile, the floor, another plumbing equipment. Secondly, it is hard physically. To connect drain, the container can be lifted and fixed by installing wooden supports under it.
  • Bath made from cast iron should be very firmly fixed. Nowhere should there be even a hint of swaying, any other movement. Otherwise, it can move from the legs or tip over the action of the mass placed in it and its own weight. Due to the large mass of the cast-iron bath, such an emergency will most likely lead to damage to cladding, drain and water pipes, another plumbing.

The legs must securely hold. For mounting it is best to use bolts. Some models allow installing on the legs without fixing bolts. But do not do that. This design is less reliable. Therefore, it is better to scout legs to the case.

Installation of steel bath do it yourself

Installation of a bath, made of steel, is not fundamentally different from the installation of acrylic. The only difference in the attachment of the legs is not carried out with the help of self-tapping screws, but with spills, bolts, or wedges. When assembling they need to be twisted evenly and do not immediately screw up to the stop. It also needs to be remembered that it may be necessary to get a fine adjustment of the bolts exactly on the leg.

Plastic Bath Features

Unusual bath ball

Plastic baths are close as possible according to the characteristics to acrylic, however, they have less strength and more flex. Therefore, the layers of sealant under them will not be enough - it is necessary to something more reliable. As a support use:

  • the backup of the wood;
  • construction of cement mixture;
  • brick laying;
  • Foam block.

It is installed along the entire length of the bottom or in two or three places, which will experience particularly intensive loads during operation.

The rest of the installation procedure does not differ from those for products from acrylic.

Plastic bath

Nuances Installation Corner Bath

In general, the installation of the corner bath is similar to the installation of rectangular. However, during work, you need to remember some nuances.

  • The walls at the installation site must form a straight angle of 90 degrees. Otherwise, exactly install the bath will not work and one of its walls will move. Direct angle is achieved by applying layers of plaster.
  • Need to carefully approach floor alignment. Corner baths have only three angle, so even a slight tilt at least one side will lead to pouring or splashing water.

Corner bath

Screens

With the help of the screens, communications are hidden, it is possible to make the shelf for the storage of various household accessories. In addition, they significantly improve the interior. The screen can be brick with further facing of ceramic tiles, from MDF, plastic panels, drywall plates, OSP or in the form of a common tissue curtain. In turn, tell me how to make each option.

Bath screen lined with tiles

Tile

On the photo Sliding screen for bath on adjustable legs

On the photo sliding screen on adjustable legs

Bath Function Screen

Functional screen

Designs must ensure convenient access to the siphon for periodic regulatory work on cleaning the system. The presence of the leg openness is advisable only when the bathroom is used for washing. Put in it expensive washing machine is unprofitable and dangerous, summer houses use a bath for laundry laundry.

What are the framework for installation of screens

Any type of screen, besides brick, mounted on the frame. They are made of metal products, wooden rails or square pipes. The last option is very expensive and time-consuming, no operational advantages has no. Why do you need a frame that can withstand a hundred kilogram load if it does not actually exceed several? We believe that it makes no sense to consider it. To the immigration of the design you need to approach very carefully, the curve design in any case will have to redo.

How to make a carcass from metal products?

Step 1. Calculate the number of profiles.

They need three vertical in height, two horizontal in length and two horizontal width. To enhance the design, use jumpers, for the door you need to make a separate small frame. There are enough three jumpers along the length, in width optional. Knowing dimensions is easy to learn the total amount of material. Immediately buy screws for fastening profiles.

Step 2. Make marking.

Very important stage, do not rush, check the measurements several times. To increase the accuracy, use a plumb, the level of the vertical plane indicates inaccurately.

How to make marking?

  1. Attach a plumb to the wall and corner of the bath, wait until he calms down. Make the top and bottom of the thread, batter between the labels. On the same algorithm, draw the vertical line and in all free corners of the bath, there may be two or three, depending on the size of the bath and premises. Thus designated the place of docking screen with walls.
  2. At the distance of approximately 3-4 centimeters, spend next to them parallel lines per battery perimeter. The specific distance depends on the material of the frame and finishing finishing materials: drywall, OSP, MDF, or glue and ceramic tiles.
  3. Also draw the same parallel lines on the floor of the shower room. Check all sizes again, do not allow errors.

Further work depend on the carcass material. Optimal - metal photographs, but you can work with wooden slats.

Metal Framework

Step 1. Cut metal profile in size, how to determine them, we already told them higher. Do not do with jumpers yet, make the blanks only around the perimeter of the frame.

Step 2. Put a long profile on the floor, one side must accurately lay down to the laid line. Neatly marker designated the drilling points of the holes under the dowel. Pencil work badly, use the marker.

Laying of metal profile

Laying of metal profile

Step 3. Out the profile, drill the holes drill, place the profile and lock it. Immediately dowels do not tighten, the bar has perforated holes, with which the element can be moved a little on different sides and achieve an exact position.

Step 4. . Now fix the planks to the walls. The algorithm of actions is the same. If it is planned to use a heavy osp slab to be used, then the vertical and horizontal profiles in the corners are connected to methms.

Step 5. Frite to the top side, secure the profiles in length and width, you need to get a robust frame. If necessary, make additional jumpers for enhancing the design. They can have a vertical or horizontal position.

Stands from the profile

Stands from the profile

Step 6. Decide which doors come to you to revise the siphon, make a small frame under it in the right place. The position of all framework elements constantly check the level. Door sizes at least 30 cm around the perimeter, otherwise uncomfortable to clean the siphon.

The frame is ready, check its stability, attach multidirectional effort from all sides. The construction is stagged - add jumpers in problem places, achieve high stability.

Suspended by plasterboard screen

Suspended by plasterboard screen

Bathtub

After finishing tiles

Wooden bars frame

In terms of its indicators, it is similar to Metal Pile. It is not necessary to be afraid that Rinch will appear on the tree. There are fears - heal it with antiseptics.

For a frame, you can use rakes of various sizes. When choosing, take into account the load of the finish cover. The universal option can be considered the size of the regques five to five centimeters. Marking on the floor and wall do, as always. One feature - take into account the width of the rails, they must be under the side shelves and do not interfere with the finish finish. To fix the frame, use metal corners and dowels, the width of the corners are slightly less than the width of the rail. It will make it possible to adjust the position of the frame without fear. In addition, possible errors will easily be easily correct during the drilling of the holes for the dowels.

Step 1 . Set the long block on the floor, count the position of the corners. Make marks for drilling holes under the dowel.

Practical advice. In order to completely eliminate the output of the corner of the line, it is better to shift it a little inward. It is not terrible that he will be screwed to the bar not in the center, but nothing will interfere with the finish finish.

Step 2. Drill the holes, secure the corners with dowels and to them self-pressing bar. Adjust its position. In the same way, install the meek broom.

Step 3. Measure the height of the vertical elements. Make a gap about 1 cm to the bottom of the side. Corners secure the segments into a single design with the bottom.

Install the racks under the bath

Install the racks

Step 4. Prepare two more long and two meek for fixing in the top of the frame. Why two, and not one? We recommend the first to install at a distance of about 10 cm from the side, these bars are needed to control the size and vertical of the frame. The already stable design is recommended to be recorded another one on the back to the side. So make much easier, the frame is more accurate. In addition, the strength of the structure increases.

Step 5. In the right places, make a frame for the door if heavy materials are used, then put several jumpers. To increase the strength, you can fix multiple spacers in the corners.

The frame is ready, you can start the finishing of the trim, the mount is carried out by the tree screws.

Brick screens

By time, they take away not a lot of time, and in terms of strength, reliability and durability are much superior to the previously described options. Prepare materials and tools. You can use bricks or concrete blocks. The amount is calculated in this way.

  1. Calculate the side and end space of space that you are going to close.
  2. The resulting amount is divided into one brick or block area. Quantity round up to an integer. For stock you can take one block or two bricks.

One bath will take two sand buckets and a third of the cement buckets. In the future, the surface must be separated by ceramic tiles, we will give step-by-step design in the next section.

Step 1. Put the first row of bricks on the edge, constantly check its position level. You need to know that after masonry on the edge, the wall can "swim". First feature. The solution should be slightly thick than when laying the plastics. To increase the adhesion of the solution with the side of the brick, it should be made with a spray gun. Do not overdo it. The optimal degree of wetting is determined practically. Second feature. After three rows, it is necessary to give a time to the solution a little frost. Make a break for an hour for two or three.

The brick is placed in a checker, the joints of the lower row overlap with the entire top bricks.

Step 2. Continue work before closing the entire space. It will be hard to shove the solution in the gap between masonry and sides. It is advisable to make such an emphasis, it significantly increases the strength of the installation. Use for these purposes any non-screed tools, workshop such works not to do.

Laying brick screen

Laying brick screen

Important. Do not forget to leave a hole for the audit of the siphon. Check the construction, remove the residues of the speaker. Let the time for pouring at least a day.

Finishing ceramic tiles

If the wall already has a tile, then work is somewhat complicated. The fact is that you need to take measures to match the seam between the tiles on the wall and screen. Sometimes it happens when it is impossible to put a whole tile, you have to cut it into parts. There is no practical experience of cutting tiles - use plastic inserts. They can align shoals to a centimeter, but appearance, of course, will suffer a little. These professionals are not used for the insert junctions, their sections are tightly adjacent to the surfaces without cracks.

Step 1. Calculate the number of tiles, the method is the same as for the brick. And in stock you can buy one or two tiles, you will no longer need, very small area of ​​the separated surface. Adhesion need to buy approximately 10 kg.

Step 2. Start laying the tile from the bottom row. Check the position by the level or level rail, control several tiles simultaneously. They must lie strictly in the same plane.

Tile glue

Tile glue

Step 3. The tile is placed on the uneven surface, it is impossible to use the comb. Adhesive glue along the edges and in the center of the tile, the thickness is about one centimeter. Next, the tile must be pressing and moving to the left to the right until the position is not aligned. The final fit is done by the level. Do not forget to enjoy crosses. Some newbies set the cross plastics in the four corners of the junction. So do not do for several reasons. First, it is much more difficult to smoke tiles, the cross will constantly move the nearby. Secondly, there will be problems with the removal of the cross, everyone will have to nourish the knife.

Print tile

Print tile

Step 4. There is no experience - use plastic elements in the corners and joints, they make it much easier.

Step 5. . About two hours later, you can start the stamps of the seams. The color of the material must be harmonized with tiles and a common room design. Excess the grouts are removed with a damp cloth or a sponge. You should not wait until it dry out, the dry material is difficult to clean.

Finishing with OSP or plasterboard

Plates must be moisture resistant. We recommend using a more durable slab osp, with drywall work easier, but they are far from ideal on the resilience. Under the effort begin to be fed, the ceramic tile falls off.

The decoration with plates is much easier than the laying of ceramic tiles. How is it done?

Step 1. Remove the sizes of the frame, make the stove markup. As a rule, the length exceeds the length of the plate, you have to be allowed. This probability should be foreseen during the production of the frame and in the place of docking to install a vertical rack.

Cut all blanks. Plasterboard is easily cut by a mounting knife, a manual electric saw or a jig is needed for PSL.

Step 2. . In turn, you record the elements, carefully work with plasterboard carefully. With great strengths of tightening the screws of their heads, the gypsum will be afraid, you have to twist new ones.

Mounting plasterboard

Mounting plasterboard

Step 3. At the installation site, screw the small loops. Check the functionality of the door.

Cracking frame plasterboard

Cracking frame plasterboard

The door of the audit hatch is installed

The door of the audit hatch is installed

Step 4. Start the finish finish of surfaces. You can use ceramic tiles - long and expensive. There is an option easier - take the surface by self-adhesive decorative film, today on sale a huge selection is cheap and beautiful. In addition, you can easily change the pattern or repair the coating in the case of mechanical damage. But the film also has a disadvantage - the surface must be perfectly smooth.

Practical advice. Do not attempt to immediately glue the film without air pockets, it is almost impossible to do. Remove air simply - pocket pocket in several places with needle and remove air to smoothing your pocket.

Plastic lining

The option is not the most successful. It is recommended to apply if the walls of the shower room are decorated with lining. Standard installation process. The problem occurs with the technological hole and the door. Practices are recommended to produce them from OSP from plasterboard.

Screen under the bath from PVC panels do it yourself

Screen from PVC panels do it yourself

How to make sliding doors

Very simple and functional screens. For the manufacture you will need two guides and MDF stove. The disadvantage of this material is the likelihood of spontaneous deformation. You can get rid of it only by making for the doors of a separate small frame. It is advisable to use thin wooden slats, the MDF is glued to them with special glue.

Step 1. Make a carcass from metal products, the manufacturer's algorithm for such designs is described. Check the position of all items.

Important. For sliding screen it is especially important to withstand the parameters, the racks must be strictly vertical.

Step 2. Attach the guides to the framework. They can be aluminum or plastic.

Plastic guides

Plastic guides

Top guide

Top guide

Step 3. Measure the exact distance between the guides, the scatter by parallelism cannot exceed 1-2 mm. Otherwise, during opening / closing, the door will be clicked.

Step 4. Cut from the MDF plate doors of the desired dimensions. For overlapping, it is enough 2-3 cm. Cutting the slab can be electric jigsaw or hacksaw for metal. Work carefully, take the bottom stop - the cut slicer will decrease.

Step 5. Remove the brack from the cut. Use a grinding eye or a circular chloride machine. Set the handles.

Plastic Homemade Doors for Screen

Plastic Homemade Doors for Screen

Step 6. . Install the doors to the guides. To do this, they need to insert them into the lower guide, to exacerbate and insert into the upper guide. MDF thickness is about 5 mm.

Sliding screen

Sliding screen

The guide profile is fixed on the floor. Cutout in the door is made to remove the hoses from the washing machine

The guide profile is fixed on the floor. Cutout in the door is made to remove the hoses from the washing machine

The facial surface can be fermented in any way with the interior of the bathroom.

Cafe for plated

Installation under the tile - the optimal solution to the question how to make a bath sustainable. Such material is more hygienic and practical. For facing the tile of the bath itself, it is not without installing the screen. And you can take a tile any bath. Such cladding will be very harmonious in the interior. And, most importantly, it has the maximum stability of a special connection with the floor. The screen under the tile can be erected from brick or cement.

How to put a bath on the tile

Suppose you already have a good outdoor tile. How to install a bath on the tile? To put the bathroom on the moving basis, it will be necessary to secure the basis of waterproof polymer glue. Nothing to scratch the tile, it is recommended to adjust the legs into the tips of the plastic.

To learn more about how to install a bath on a tile, you can see photos, videos on our website. Also for you prepared detailed instructions.

Important Nuances Installation

An example of a high-quality installation of acrylic font on the frame

  • The legs are attached so that the siphon's output element is easily joined into the sewer pipe. If your siphon is cast iron, you will need to screw the steel tube into it;
  • Installed with a slope;
  • It is important to take into account the parallelism of the sides relative to the floor;
  • How to hermetically install the bath? The sealing of the joints is subject to mandatory verification. Little spaces between the wall and the side of the plumbing must be cemented with a triangular recess. And on the outer surface apply a layer of acrylic paint;
  • The tightness of the places in contact with the bath and sewer system is also obligatory!
  • In case the installation is not at the wall, and in the center of the room, the sealing of the edges is not important at all;
  • Large slots are laid by brick, plastic plate or pipe with a special sealing layer;
  • It is also recommended to connect to the electrical normalization system. This connection is a professional installer makes a copper wire or steel strip;
  • Before using the new plumbing, it is worth pouring about 10 liters of water into it. First hot, then cold;
  • Installing a new bath with a hydromassage obliges to trace the supply of additional communication.

Our range:

Photo editing bathroom

Advantages and disadvantages of homemade bath

Compared with the purchased structures, the independently made bath has a number of advantages.

Firstly, such a bath will be perfectly fit your requests, since it is initially created taking into account the size of households. You can make your bowl deeper and long. Especially this solution will like the owners of the cottages, because the bath can be made deeper and longer, turning it in this way in the similar home pool.

Secondly, you will have the opportunity to save money. Inviting specialists to arrange a bathroom, you will be forced to pay for their work, whereas with independent manufacture of bricks and ceramic tiles you only need to purchase materials.

Thirdly, a solid brick design is more durable than steel or polymer bowl, so you will enjoy bathing for many years.

Before making a bath from tiles in your home, you need to evaluate it some minuses:

  • Disadvantage of cleaning. If your bath will have a rectangular shape, then you will need more time to clean the corners, because it is easier for cleaning curved surfaces to get into the corners;
  • insecurity. Corner structures decorated with ceramic tiles are unsafe for children. If your family has kids, then think about how to protect them from possible injuries;
  • The need to dismantle during repair. If you, after you, you want to change the bath, then you will have to disassemble the entire design, and this event is quite time consuming.

However, despite these minuses, a brick and tile bath, created by their own hands, is a wonderful, convenient and spectacular design, which will in the future become your favorite and pride.

Options

Their many and people are limited only by their fantasy and financial opportunities. You can arrange a classic rectangular bath or romantic round. And it is possible - a medieval huge font, covered with bricks.

Examples:

  1. Polyethylene bath - a budget option. For this, the capacity of the required dimensions is taken, from wood or plastic, and from the inside will be rested with polyethylene. This method is more disposable, it is more convenient to use it for giving. Improve the "design" is easy - to pull out the pit and remove it with a material that does not let water. "Lazy" pool is ready. Polyethylene bath
  2. Brick bath - Selecting the pallet, put it with the material. Knowledge of the required parameters for the construction of the bath will help calculate the height and shape of the walls. Previously need to think about the place of the drain. Make a small hole in the corner of the pallet, bring the corrugated pipe there, the edge of which is connected to its sewer system. Outside, decorate a bath with tiled or other decor. It is important to use a moisture resistant solution for masonry. Brick bath
  3. Concrete bath - Create a metal formwork module. It will be required for a bath of concrete with your own hands. The frame is poured with a ready-made solution of concrete. How dry, you need to bore it from the inside with a moisture-proof material. The bath will resemble a mini pool, especially if you decorate it with tiles.

Concrete bath

Dimensions of the font should be determined in advance as the flow system and water supply.

Brick bath

Replace the standard bathing bowl can design of brick or foam concrete blocks. Masonry technology is based in such a way that you can create a bowl of any shape and size. The use of a shrinkage mold is not required.

Most often, the homemade container of the brick is placed in the corner between the two walls. The design allows you to make a comfortable font, which takes up little space.

The process of individual masonry consists of 4 stages:

  • Substress communication communications;
  • laying of the design itself;
  • waterproofing;
  • Exterior cladding.

Pluses of homemade brick bath

The first and most important advantage of such a bath is a design. You choose the form and sizes of the structure, so you will receive a product that will meet all your requirements regarding external parameters. In addition, the creation of such a bath is required relatively some money.

Minuses of brick bath do it yourself

The disadvantage may look like the manufacture of the bath is working with a building material. However, in fact, the process does not require special skills, and does not take a lot of time and time. In his time, I made this bath with my own hands, in the room of the cottage on the 2nd floor. The bath turned out with a lot of weight, about 2 tons, taking into account the materials and water. If you live in the apartment, it is not recommended to repeat it. On the 1st floor under the bathroom there is a bearing wall, so in my case everything is done safely. With the inside of the trough, reinforcement and insulation were provided, so that water as long as possible kept heat. In addition, an epoxy grout for seams was used to prevent penetration into the water. In the upper part, the diameter of the bath is 2 meters. The room has dimensions of 4.5x5 m. A bunch bath will be decorated with a bathroom in your home only provided that all work will be taken carefully and with the observance of technology. In this case, you can enjoy every bathroom intake, relying on its reliable design created by your own hands.

Bathtub of concrete

Concrete construction is considered better brick, but the manufacturing process is more complicated. The lack of docking seams makes fastener and durable.

The advantages of the monolithic bath are as follows:

  • The bath is capable of withstanding high weight;
  • Over time, only decorative cladding can be deformed;
  • long service life;
  • The possibility of implementing any idea and designer idea.

Bathtub of concreteBathtub of concrete

The disadvantages of the design include:

  1. Lack of access to communications systems. All plumbing devices are covered with concrete, so when emergency situations occur, it is quite difficult to get to them.
  2. Difficulties in the manufacture of formwork. When a bowl is created according to an individual project, the design often contains bends and transitions. This causes additional difficulties when pouring concrete.
  3. The design is obtained quite heavy, so the placement of concrete baths on the upper floors is not recommended.

Advantages and disadvantages

First, let's decide on the main advantages of choosing from such a material:

Photo 2.Exclusive style. A concrete bath looks very original, especially if the rest of the interior is performed in the same style. This bowl will attract the views of all visitors to your sanitary node.

Durability. TO The hope will serve you for years, since a good concrete is very durable material. And over the years, it only gets harder.

In the first 2 weeks of frozen, he dials 50% of its maximum strength. The rest takes over the next 10 years.

Easy to care. To clean the bath, you can use almost any means that are used for a tile washing. In most cases, only simple rinsing with water and wipes the coating with a sponge with a soap solution.

But it was not without flaws:

The complexity of manufacture. Creating a concrete bath with your own hands is a rather long and complex process. Which requires careful planning and following the rules of which we will tell below.

Limit of forms. Baths made of concrete are usually rectangular, since rounded shapes make not easy. Therefore, if you want a bizarre font with different bends - you have to face well, or make your choice in favor of another material.

Font brick - Do you need such a design?

Baths made of bricks are rare enough. They are usually built in the following cases:

  1. If you plan to make a combined bathroom with a standard bathroom.
  2. If the bathing room in your dwelling has large sizes (you can not just do the bathroom, but a private brick pool).
  3. If you want to create an exquisite and very original bathroom on an exclusive design project.

Font brick - Do you need such a design?

Bath of bricks

Before starting to build a brick bath, think well - whether it needs you. Such a font has several serious flaws. Her construction requires knowledge of the rules of laying bricks. Operation itself lasts long enough (especially when the design of a complex form is built). Yes, and the caring for the brick font is significantly more difficult than behind a concrete, cast-iron or acrylic product.

But the advantages of a brick bath a lot. It is very durable, comfortable in operation (usually the depth of such fonts is more, in acrylic or cast iron baths). And the cost of its structure with a competent approach to performance will be quite affordable.

Polystyrene bath

A polystyrene foam can be used as a building material instead of bricks. The advantages of using foam for forming a bath frame is its low weight, ease of processing and the ability to create a design of any form in a short time. Such a bath due to its insignificant weight, when performing reliable waterproofing, you can make in the apartment. The general principle of the manufacture of a bath is similar as in the case of bricks, consider some nuances of the process:

  • Polystyrene foam cuts into pieces of necessary shape and size with a hacksaw or knife.
  • A arbitrary shape of the bath is laid out. Polyfoam is glued on a special mounting glue for expanded polystyrene.
  • When the frame is ready, plastering by several layers of waterproof glue using the reinforcing grid. This stage performs several functions: enhancing the design, giving the desired streamlined forms, as well as bath waterproofing.
  • After drying the plaster layer, the surface is ground and treated with a liquid waterproofing composition.
  • Facing is made by mosaic using waterproof glue.
  • The final stage is to fill the seams with waterproof epoxy grout, which increases the tightness of the seams.

Bath manufacturing technology from foam foam pieces

What will required for work?

To learn how to make a bath in the bathroom, you must first prepare all the devices and materials that will be needed during the work.

So, we will need:

  • Level
  • Extending
  • Galnik
  • Trowel
  • Putty knife

Remember! When installing the bottom of the bathroom it is very important to remember that the slope must be in the side of the cream hole, otherwise everything will end not very good. Water just will stay in the bathroom and stammer!

Making a brick bath

brick bath do it yourselfInstallation of foam blocks

If all the parties discussed above did not cause you doubts about the exercise of the desire to own a brick bath, then it's time to estimate the complexity of the task for the implementation of the project with their own hands.

The main stages of construction:

  1. Plumbing work. Conducting the necessary communications is better to do before starting work on the device walls. It will be more convenient than later, in cramped conditions. Since it will be impossible to get to the baths of the bath, most likely, at the end of all work, it will be possible to get, then for maintenance - cleanings, it is worth installing as a drain is not a conventional bathing for the baths, and the ladder for shower cabins, so that there is a possibility of cleaning from above;
  2. Construction construction. We make measurements of the room, make up the project, we calculate the amount of material and lay a brick bath . In addition to bricks, can use aerated concrete and other types of blocks. Masonry exercise on a conventional masonry solution. When designing a design, the wall must be made "in the Pollipich" or use blocks, a thickness of at least 100 mm.

how to make a brick bathExample of a built-in brick bath with mosaic facing

Important! Making the wall thinner - "in a quarter of a brick", or apply thinner blocks, should not. This partition should withstand water pressure and if you have thinner, it will require additional reinforcement, which ultimately will still make partitions thicker;

  1. Waterproofing. Ensuring reliable waterproofing of the pool is one of the most important tasks in construction.

Tip: The easiest way is the device of the waterproofing in combination with improving bitumen materials. Just do not use the ruberoid for this purpose, which is advised in such instructions. Familiarize yourself before buying with the assortment of materials of rolled waterproofing used for foundations and pools.

Waterproofing should be done in two layers, having the seams "Vansel". Note that when finished, before facing tiles, you need to create a primer layer on top of the waterproofing layer so that the tile glue has a good adhesion with a surface coated with waterproofing;

  1. Finish. The choice of tile can be any, but it is better to use a small format tile so as not to make trimming. The most suitable mosaic will be.

What brick is fits

Baths are made from ceramic, silicate brick or foam concrete blocks. If you comply with all technical norms, durable and reliable font will work out of any brick. The design is able to serve many decades. Specialists of the construction sphere are recommended to give preference to standard ceramics. It is a little more expensive than his opponents, but consumer properties overlap the difference in price.

Brick bathBrick bath

Ceramic brick

Plastic walls in the bathroomUse of ceramic bricks

Until recently, the brickwork was the only way to lay the walls of the bathroom and toilet inside the residential premises. The availability of the material, the low complexity of the work and the high strength of the structures. The bathroom with a brick wall has excellent performance, is easily mounted indoors and may have a complex geometric shape. Brickwork walls of the bathroom is performed from clay solid or hollow brick.

Depending on the size of the room, it is possible to apply masonry to the Polkirpich or one quarter, but the second option requires a higher qualification of the bricklayer and the time of time extinguishes on one third. A brick wall made of facing hollow bricks can serve as a decorative element of the interior without additional finishes.

Important! When using bricks, it is necessary to remember that the masonry is performed according to the scheme called the rebirth of the seams when the upper row load is distributed into two underlying bricks, it provides high storage strength. If the bath with a brick wall will be plastered, then the masonry is performed in a wastelife for a better clutch of the plastering solution.

Ceramic brick, designed to masonry walls and partitions, has the following advantages:

  • High compressive strength, determined by the brick brand, where the digit shows which load in kilograms can withstand 1 sq. CM surface;
  • Good wear resistance surface;
  • Low water absorption at the level of 14% for conventional bricks and not more than 3% for clinker;
  • Good soundproof properties that meet the requirements of regulatory documentation;
  • Environmental purity of material made of natural clay without chemical additives.

Some characteristic of ceramic ordinary brick disadvantages reduce the attractiveness of the material to build walls inside the premises:

  • Large own weight. Square masonry meter weighs about 220 kg;
  • High cost of high-quality brickwork;

Foam concrete

Bathroom with brick wallFoam concrete for creating walls in the bathroom

Modern building material, created on the basis of cement-sandy solution with the addition of foaming additives, determining after hardening, the porous structure of the material. Properties of foam concrete, how can not be suitable for the construction of undesupply partitions inside ready-made building structures.

The walls in the foam block bath have a small thickness and its own weight. One standard size unit with weight no more than 18 kg replaces about 20 ceramic bricks with a total weight of about 80 kg. More than 4 times the discharge reduction of the load on the overlap allows you to build plumbing cabins anywhere in the room.

The material is very environmentally and does not contain harmful impurities. The foam blocks for the bathroom do not absorb moisture, creating a favorable microclimate indoor. The manufacturer of natural components of the foam block does not burn, and heat and soundproof properties make it possible to reduce the thickness of the walls of the wall to the sizes sufficient to comply with the strength characteristics of the structure.

To note: the material is well cut and drilled tools intended for wood, and does not require a thick plastering layer for final finishes.

Foam blocks are made by casting in special forms or cuts from the finished monolith, which does not affect the quality of the material. Famillers for partitions in the bathroom have the following advantages:

  • Small own weight that guarantees the impossibility of overloading overlaps;
  • Low shrinkage under load;
  • High sound and thermal insulation properties;
  • Simplicity of laying and processing, with the possibility of cutting figure structures;
  • Low price;
  • Low water absorption. Foam block can swim in water for a long time without prejudice to the properties of the material;

With all the positive qualities, foam blocks have some drawbacks that need to be considered during construction:

Wall shockting in the bathroom. Stages of work and alignment technology

  • Complexity when fixing heavy items;
  • Long set of structural strength and some shrinkage of material;
  • The need to apply plaster layer;
  • The use of a synthetic foaming agent instead of natural reduces the strength of the block.

Gasobutton

what to lay out the walls in the bathroomAerated concrete for walls in the bathroom

One of the varieties of cellular concrete, which is used as the material for the walls of the bathroom -eto-concrete. The material manufactured on the basis of cement is frozen by chemical by the help of aluminum powder and harden at high temperature in a special autoclave. The hardening of the aerated concrete blocks occurs in special installations at high temperature, which increases the technical characteristics of the material. After cooling, aerated concrete continues to increase its strength over time to the value set by the characteristics.

The aerated concrete blocks in the bathroom must be isolated from moisture exposure from the inside, since the porous structure can absorb a large amount of moisture over long time. Aerated concrete has the highest strength characteristics among cellular concrete, and its surface is better kept finishing materials. The walls in the bathroom from the aerated concrete are almost not inferior by the strength of the brick, but several times easier, and laying blocks with a thin layer of special adhesive reduces the cost of production.

Important! One of the types of aerated concrete is a gas-silicate, obtained by similar technology from a silicate mixture and a foaming agent. Apply gas-silicate blocks in the bathroom is undesirable due to their large absorbency and low thermal resistance.

With standard sizes of block 600x200x100mm, they have the following advantages:

  • High mechanical strength;
  • The best than the foam concrete heat and sound insulation;
  • Excellent fire resistance. The material can be on fire for several hours;
  • Ease of mechanical processing without the use of special tools;
  • Fewer cement used in production;

The increased porosity of the material entails some easy-to-store disadvantages:

  • increased hygroscopicity;
  • The highest cost among cellular concrete.

Slagoblock

Photo 7.Slagoblock for building partitions

Choosing material for walls in the bathroom, you can successfully apply the universal hollow building stone, obtained by the vibrating placement of a cement mortar with a filler from a metallurgical granular slag. Clacoblock is cheated in the manufacture and can be made even independently without the use of expensive equipment. Bathroom blocks are made by hollow with a total thickness of 100 mm, which improves the technical and operational characteristics and reduces the consumption of materials.

The main advantages of the slag block:

  • High mechanical strength;
  • Resistance to water and high temperature;
  • Relatively low weight;
  • Low cost and the possibility of independent manufacture;
  • The possibility of using any filler capable of fastening cement knitting.

From the disadvantages it should be noted:

  • Increased surface roughness, requiring plastering;
  • Application for processing a special cutting tool.

Important! When choosing slag blocks, you need to pay attention to the components of which they are made. Not all are suitable for use in residential premises, because May contain hazardous impurities and components for human health. Such blocks can be used only for the construction of the host. buildings.

Laying bricks

The first stage of the manufacturer of the bath with their own hands is the laying of bricks. To work, use the usual silicate brick or red ceramic. The masonry is performed in one row with the help of moisture-resistant brands of concrete, mixed with water in the proportion of 1: 4.

Laying bricksLaying bricks

Since there is an increased humidity in the bathroom, experienced masters recommend using a solution with antiseptic additives that do not allow the formation of fungus or mold. To make the walls fledged out of the brick, it will take a culma, a building mixer, a container for kneading, mopping and level. This operation is performed in the following order:

  1. The floor of the bathroom is cleared of garbage, remove the old decorative coating to the concrete base and align.
  2. The connection of the siphon to the sewer system, replace the pipes, because after the end of the work it will be impossible to get to them.
  3. Laying flights of the package of the desired size and height. The correctness of the masonry is constantly checking the construction level. Проверка ванны уровнем Bath check level
  4. Seams between bricks should be 0.8-1.2 mm. Surplus the solution, causing the seam, is removed to frozen.

Important! Before laying out the bathroom walls, you need to wet the brick water. This operation prevents water from drawing from cement mortar and loss of structure strength. Soaking is recommended to perform during the day.

Rectangular bath

Before you start the masonry, prepare the solution.

To do this, thoroughly mix one part of the M-400 cement with three parts of the sand. After the mixture becomes homogeneous, we gradually add water, constantly stirring the solution. The finished composition of the consistency should remind the thickened sour cream.

To check its readiness, you can use the way professional bricklayers are used. To do this, type a little mixture on the trowel and try to reset it with a sharp movement. The solution, ready to use, will turn from the surface with a monolithic lump, without a residue.

Locked bricks begin by distributing a mixture with a thickness of up to 15mm on a concrete base. The walls are placed by the usual single-row masonry, with the dressing of each row. To do this, starting each subsequent row, the first brick is shifted to the floor of the housing relative to the element in the previous row. In this seam between the bricks should be about 10mm. This will easily eliminate the irregularities of individual bricks, which cannot be done with too thin layer of solution.

Performing masonry, lower each brick for several minutes into the water. By this, you repeatedly increase the strength of the masonry, since in this case there will be no dehydration of the solution and significantly increase the value of adhesion.

Having passed two - three rows, pour the sewer plum pipe slag and make a concrete tie. To do this, use the rule and wide rambling. Do not forget to make the slope of the bath bottom in the direction of the drain grille at least 10mm on the 1M length of the design.

In addition, when calculating the height of the screed, consider the thickness of the waterproofing and the facing layer. Of course, the bottom can be concreted and after the walls of the bath will be prepared, however, you will agree that it is easier to do it with a height of 25 - 30cm. Even the masonry, try to immediately select protruding from the seams of excessive solutions and constantly monitor the work of the construction level. After End of work The construction is left alone until a complete setting of the solution. As a rule, 10 - 15 hours for this will be quite enough.

Bath of arbitrary shape

You can create any brick bath design

For the manufacture of a bath with a curvilinear inner surface, a brick frame is constructed exactly by the same technology as for rectangular structures. Typically, for the manufacture of a bath with smooth, flowing surfaces and a frame, a free form is required. Call the inner surface of such a bath can be using a metal mesh from which the desired circuit is fused. Then the space between the frame and the mesh is filled with a concrete mixture.

To make it preparation, it will be necessary to mix with water 1 part of the cement and 3 parts of the granite dropout. Then the walls and the bottom of the bath are smoothed with spatulas and a grout tool. After that, proceed to surface sealing.

It will be difficult to use runneroid in this case, so use waterproofing for pools.

Waterproofing

So that water during hygienic procedures does not leaken through the bottom of the bricks, the construction is carried out. For this, over the wall masonry and the bottom of the bath is placed in the cement-sandy mixture of the same composition. At the same time, it is necessary to set the tanks for washing the slope in the direction of the drain, providing the movement of water into the sewer. Waterproofing the bottom of the brick bath with their own hands, can be done using the following materials:

  • Equal waterproofing. Ruberoid and membrane waterproofing are the simplest method to protect the bottom of the brick bath from leaks. These materials are cut into stripes, and then put the bracket with an airborne approaching. Waterproof waterproofingWaterproof waterproofing
  • Caution waterproofing. Different mastic based on bitumen and synthetic rubber are used as coating waterproofing. They are applied to the bottom of the bath with the help of plaster cells with a thick layer. The disadvantage of this method is low drying speed. Foolish waterproofingFoolish waterproofing
  • Picky. In order to water the bottom of the font in this way, it is necessary to apply 4-6 layers of moisture-resistant bitumen, polymer or combined emulsion. The disadvantage of this method consider the short service life. Окрасочная Color

Experienced masters are recommended on top of waterproofing to make a layer of flowing thermal insulation material, which will retain the water temperature for a long time. Then fill the screed.

Facing

To give a brick bath an aesthetic appearance, it must be fed by decorative material. The facing on which the service life depends, the appearance and convenience of the font, should have 3 qualities: moisture resistance, impact resistance, durability. For finishing, you can use:

  • Mosaic. Ceramic mosaic - excellent material for cladding brick font. It does not absorb water, has a small size that allows you to fold the baths of complex shape. However, when working with their own hands it is better to abandon this idea, since the finish takes a lot of time. Облицовка ванны мозаикой Bath facing Mosaic
  • Ceramic tile. Ceramic tile is also suitable for cladding brick fonts, but it is easier to work easier and faster. The minus of that material is that it will not be able to separate the bath bent, complicated form. Facing tilesFacing tiles
  • Liquid acrylic. To give an aesthetic appearance, the inner surface of the font is covered with a compound based on liquid acrylic. It gives the surface smoothness, glossy shine and beautiful, rich color. It dries liquid acrylic 3-5 days.

Some wizards use a combined method of facing a brick container for washing, which can be applied when working with your own hands. It consists in finishing the outer surface with ceramic tiles or mosaic with the subsequent fill of the inner surface of the bowl of liquid acrylic.

Use tiles for decorative trim

Use the soil coating the entire bath surface for a stronger and maximum tile fastening. For laying it is necessary to apply tile glue with high moisture resistance. And you can also use cement for finishing the walls of the cafenel.

Depending on personal preferences, you can use mosaic versions or tiles 10x10 cm. Reduce the number of circumcised tiles can be used using a practical mosaic option.

Stying begins with a bottom with a subsequent transition to the inner walls of the bathroom. The outer walls are decorated with tiles at the final stage.

After laying the tiles, carefully set the seams using an epoxy-based grip, it has a maximum water resistance, preventing the penetration of water under the tile and in the joints. Clean rag remove the remnants of the grout.

After completing all the work on creating a brick bath with your own hands, it is worth postponing for several days its testing and use.

Each part of the new font should dry properly, to score the desired strength. And only after that it can be filled with water and enjoy swimming.

Installation of finished plumbing on bricks

It does not always seem the possibility of a reliable installation of cups from various materials on standard stands. A good output from this situation can be a bath on bricks.

  • The solid construction of the base under the bowl from any material allows you to solve the problem of hiding all engineering communications.
  • But before this it is worth taking care of a reliable wiring. It is desirable to use plastic pipes that are not subject to corrosion.
  • It is also necessary to carefully treat all the inner space composition from the occurrence of fungus and mold.

Tip! It is better to provide a device for an audit opening with a door in the drain area and eyeliner. This will allow you to keep under control the condition of water and sewer pipes.

For greater convenience, when approaching the bath, it is also worth making a special latch for the legs. If the installation height of the bowl is quite large, you can make a podium in a brick bath or steps.

Cast iron and steel plumbing has not much lost its relevance with the advent of new materials. These are durable, reliable and durable products, but the installation requires a special approach.

Brick masonry under such a bath will be the most successful solution, and several main options are possible here:

  • Two or three brick brooral supports.
  • Four columns at the corners of the design.
  • Solid laying throughout the perimeter of the product.
  • Installation on a solid brick base.

Under acrylic bowls, solid walls along the contour are mainly arranged.

Bricks for masonry is better to take full-scale, without emptiness. If there is an independent manufacture of plumbing in the house, then you should not miss the chance to make the bathroom original and non-standard.

How is the bath from concrete?

Step 1. Decide with the size and configuration of the bath.

Reinforcement of the wallsReinforcement of the walls

Bath diagram with dimensionsBath diagram with dimensions

Keep in mind that the cubic meter of concrete weighs more tons, make sure the overlap strength. Another nuance - be sure to revise the existing water removal. Clean old sewer pipes or replace them with new ones, check the state of rubber seals. These communications after installing the concrete bath will be inaccessible to repair. If you do everything correctly, the sewage can regularly serve several decades.

Practical advice. Concrete baths are allowed to do only on factory overlap plates. Never try to build such an object on wooden beams.

Step 2. Make the layout of the contour of the bath on the stove, draw the position of the external and inner walls. It is desirable that two surfaces rest in the lateral interior partitions, this can be done only if the partitions are made of brick or foam concrete.

Bath diagram, which will be in the pavilion on the street

Bath diagram, which will be in the pavilion on the street

If your bath will stand out on the street, prepare the base. Align soil, pour and dream sand

If your bath will stand out on the street, prepare the base. Align soil, pour and dream sand

It is recommended to use the insulation to reduce heat loss in the future

It is recommended to use the insulation to reduce heat loss in the future

Step 3. Remove in the stove of the hole for vertical fittings. The diameter of the reinforcement is approximately 6-8 mm, the distance between the rods 20-30 cm. The reinforcement must be associated with a wire Ø 1-2 mm and thus create a reinforcing belt.

The connection of the rods is performed by wire knitting

The connection of the rods is performed by wire knitting

Mounted nozzle for the technological hole

Mounted nozzle for the technological hole

Connection of reinforcement in the corner

Connection of reinforcement in the corner

Important. Carefully drill holes in the concrete slabs. If the drill fell into a metal bar, then make the hole elsewhere, it is strictly forbidden to damage the reinforcing belt reinforced concrete plate.

Step 4. Start making formwork. This is the most difficult stage, the formwork has a curvilinear profile. For vertical racks, use bars about 30 × 30 mm, a smooth part can be made from edged boards with a thickness of approximately 20 mm or waterproof plywood.

Do curvilinear shields need in such a sequence.

  1. Prepare two edged boards with a thickness of about 25 mm and a width of 25-30 cm. The specific width of the boards depends on the actual radius of the bends of the bath circuit. The minimum width of the board after cutting should be at least three centimeters.
  2. Carefully on one board Draw the contour of a complex bath profile. It is recommended to make the drawing at the beginning of the drawing on a dense paper, check it out correctly, if necessary, correct, and only then use it as a template for transfer to the board.
  3. Electric jigsaw cut the board over the drawn line.
  4. Route it onto the second board, outline the outline and cut the surplus.
  5. Two slats, cover the boards on the ends, the height should be equal to the height of the bath. If the design is unstable, then with the back of the shield, install diagonal struts.
  6. To the profile side of the boards, the rails are 20 × 30 mm at a distance of about 30 cm.
  7. To the jumpers with small carnations or wood screws, lock the sheets of thin plywood. To prevent her wetting, the surface of the sheets is recommended several times to heal with lean oil, olifa or machine oil. Plywood thickness is not more than 2 mm, it should be easily bent.

Practical advice. The smaller the rounding radius, the more often the vertical jumpers should be located.

Do not rush with the manufacture of formwork shields, check the dimensions several times, provide for the possible consequences of your actions.

Step 5. Replace the formwork. The minimum wall thickness of the concrete bath should be 7 cm, the curvature radius thickness can increase to 15 cm.

Practical advice. No need to make a bath from concrete very thick. First, the weight of the design is significantly increased. Secondly, a lot of hot water will need for warming the bath. Although, with another moan, the harder bath, the more time it retains the water warm.

While mounting the formwork, use inclined backups. Constantly check the stability of the design, if there are steady, then in problem places, install additional backups. When the formwork is fully fixed, you can proceed to the fill with concrete.

Installing the shield from the inside

Installing the shield from the inside

The photo shows the mounted formwork for the rectangular bowl.

The photo shows the mounted formwork for the rectangular bowl.

Shields are bonded with each other

Shields are bonded with each other

Exterior shields are additionally fixed by the backups.

Outdoor shields are additionally fixed by the backups.

What is waterproof concrete

Due to the fact that the inner surfaces of the bath will be lined with ceramic tiles, use traditional methods of waterproofs is not recommended - they all significantly reduce the adhesion coefficient for tiles with a bath surface. And the tile is operated under conditions of long-term direct contact with water and at elevated temperatures. Due to the relatively large oscillations of linear dimensions, the tile fixation strength still decreases, the bathroom has to be repaired quite often. Conclusion - the use of waterproofing materials is inappropriate. Professionals recommend pouring a bath with special concrete. In order not to be mistaken during the choice, you should familiarize yourself with their characteristics and features.

Type of concrete technical parameters

Waterproof

Concrete surface pushes water. Such an effect is achieved through the use of special hydrophobizer additives. Formulations can be entered both during the manufacture of concrete and by treating the external surfaces of the structure. For the manufacture of bath, waterproof concrete is not recommended. The fact is that the upper water-repellent layer of concrete has low adhesion indicators with adhesives used for laying ceramic tiles.
 

Waterproof

It can withstand a large water pressure, the technical parameters do not deteriorate after partial damage to the surface of the bath. The effect of waterproof is achieved by introducing into a solution of fillers minimizing the porosity of the material. Such concrete professionals are recommended to use during the manufacture of baths.

The number and method of using additives is indicated by manufacturers, strictly follow the instructions.

Waterproof concrete

Waterproof concrete

How to make a hydraulic concrete

How to make a hydraulic concrete

Cement selection and solution

The choice of materials depends on the further cladding of the container. If it is planned to leave the surface of concrete, then you need to choose a cement mixture with additional plasticizers. This composition will help make the bottom and walls smooth and durable.

In the case when acrylic or tile be superimposed on the concrete basis, a cement-sand mixture without additives can be used.

The main rule - the solution must be water repellent. Builders recommend such proportions: 1 part of cement M350 or higher to 3 parts of sand. Before kneading sand, it is necessary to sift from garbage and foreign bodies.

Planning and preparation of wiring

For the manufacture of a concrete bath, a plastic liner will be required, which determines the dimensions of the finished product. Based on the dimensions of the mold, it is planned to locate the bowl, water supply and sewage, the fill thickness of the concrete and so on.

Plastic Bath MoldPlastic press form for making a concrete bath.

Making the drawing and plaguing everything in place, sewer and water pipes are laid.

Preparation of plum

A drain flange is connected to the sewer tube.

Flanged Water Flange

Installation of the liner

For the stability of the mold during the pouring of concrete, a supporting framework is constructed. By setting the form, it must be loaded or securely fix it in one way so that the concrete does not squeeze it from the landing place.

Installation of plastic form for casting

The next step is the installation and sealing of the overflow nozzle (if provided for by the sewer design).

When the whole design is configured, it is disassembled and rubbed plastic from the outer side with wax, silicone lubricant or other bold so that the press form is easier to remove after the fill of the concrete.

Rubbing plastic walls silicone

Tip! If the fill is made on the floor, it is recommended to seal the adjoining wall and base of silicone.

Then the mold is installed in place, and the plums and overflows are tested with silicone.

Collection of formwork

The next step is the arrangement of the formwork, which limits the space for the fill. To the outer edge of the bath turns out to be smooth and smooth, as a "limiter" it is better to use any durable sheet material so that there are no seams. The frame is firmly fixed so that when the pouring does not displace.

Opal

Concreting

After completing all the preparatory work, the space between the walls, formwork and the mold is poured by a concrete mixture. The fill is made in one day, the separation of the process into several steps is unacceptable. To ensure the continuity of the process, it is better to attract assistant.

Important! When pouring concrete, special attention is paid to space under the form - here it is necessary to seal the concrete especially carefully to remove all air bubbles. You can use a low-power depth vibrator, but with extreme caution.

Concrete is poured over with the edges of the mold and left for grasp by 3-5 days.

Pouring concrete

Removing the formwork and removing the liner

When concrete grabs well (no earlier than 3-5 days), remove the formwork. It usually does not occur with this. Difficulties occur when the plastic concrete is removed. If it was not possible to manually pull it out, it is equipped with a design with two screw clamps that act through the beam as a lifting crane. Screws on the clips are gradually tightened, while the shape is closed from the inside - the plastic liner is extracted.

Reception of molds from concrete

Grinding

The entire concrete surface is polished with shallow emery paper, especially the edges that can be made slightly rounded - fresh concrete is well removed by abrasive. After grinding with a vacuum cleaner, all dust is removed. Concrete has sinks remaining from air bubbles - they are filled with waterproof spacing based on white cement. The putty is applied to a uniform layer over the entire surface, and after 15-20 minutes after applying itches with a spatula, since the main task is to fill the sinks so that the surface becomes smooth and smooth. To fill large shells and voids, 2-3 passages with intermediate surface grinding with small abrasive can be required.

Putty surface

After putty and grinding the surface, the finished concrete bath for giving it the color is revealed by a mourn for concrete surfaces and leave until complete drying.

Applying the veil

Decorative treatment

An ordinary sheet of paper can serve as a complete drying of concrete, which leaving for several hours in the bathroom should remain absolutely dry. When concrete dries, the surface is treated with acetone, and after drying it - a primer in 2-3 layers. While the primer dries, a liquid sealant is prepared, to apply which it is advisable to use a spray gun. After drying, the sealant is the surface of concrete acquires a glossy shine and gets reliable protection against water exposure.

Finishing bath finishes

Ceramic tile

Everything is simple, the side and the bottom of the bath are laid out with tiles. This method is the fastest and simple, but there is one but. If you have rounded items, it will be impossible to cover them with tiles.

фото 6

Therefore, this option is applicable more for rectangular models. There are no special nuances here. The surface of the bath is ground, and the tile is attached to the tile glue. The only thing is to pay special attention to the composition for grouting seams. It must have the maximum water repellent properties.

Mosaic

Facing a mosaic is carried out according to the same principles as tiles. But such a solution has a great advantage over the previous one - it can be used even if the form of the font has roundness.

фото 7

Pour acrylic

If you plan to cover the surface of the bath with a liquid acrylic, it first needs to be placed in a plastic moisture-resistant putty.

Putty on the surface can be applied only using the reinforcing grid. This will increase its strength, which is important, as it will take on heavy loads.

Acrylic is mixed with the hardener in the proportions specified in the instructions on a specific composition. The resulting mass is gently poured board.

Sources

  • http://www.komplektant.ru/articles/vanna-iz-kirpicha-i-plitki-39/
  • https://rebathroom.ru/sdelat-vannu.html.
  • https://stroitelniportal.ru/svoimi-rukami/remont-vannoj-komnaty/kak-samomu-sdelat-vannu/
  • https://www.umeltsi.ru/kvartira/5348-kak-sdelat-vannu-iz-kirpicha-poshagovyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyy-fotootchet.html
  • https://pobedimremont.com/santexnika/vanna/beton.html
  • https://remoskop.ru/vanna-betona-svoimi-rukami.html
  • https://mastervannoy.ru/vanny/Svoimi-rukami.html.
  • https://kaksdelat.guru/kak-sdelat-vannu/
  • https://dizain-vannoy.ru/santexnika/vanna-iz-kirpicha-svoimi-rukami.html
  • https://dizain-vannoy.ru/remont/stroitelnye-materialy-dlya-ten-v-vannoj.html.
  • https://sovety-vannoy.ru/vanna/vidy-vann/vanna-iz-kirpicha-svoimi-rukami.html.
  • https://blog-potolok.ru/stroitelstvo-vanny-iz-kirpicha-svoimi-rukami/
  • https://kirpichman.ru/postrojki/vanna-iz-kirpicha-i-plitki-svoimi-rukami-instruktsiya/
  • https://zen.yandex.ru/media/id/5a62024379885e3316994254/krasivaia-i-udobnaia-vannaia-iz-birpicha-svoimi -urbami--varianty-dlia-nestandartnyh-Reshenii-5E6248D44E852D3F01BAF1D8.
  • https://vanna-expert.ru/raznoe/vanna-svoimi-rukami.html.

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Published: 06/17/2020

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